Weekends are beloved because of the hearty meal at the table's centerpiece. After a robust spring supper, I like to plan on a light, meatless meal for the following night (or two), such as shiitake salad with arugula.

The following recipe is a riff on the most luxurious salad, Insalata di Porcini, found in my cookbook "Molto Italiano." The original recipe uses a classic Italian mushroom popular in the hills of Emilia-Romagna and truly represents the excellent relationship between the forager and the cook. This version uses easy-to-find shiitakes, but still delivers the same outstanding flavor. These mushrooms are available at most grocery stores year-round.

Since this salad requires few ingredients that aren't already pantry staples, I encourage you to really take your time while shopping. Look for the greenest arugula and make a quick visit to your cheesemonger to find the absolute best Parmigiano-Reggiano available.

The key to making the shiitakes sing is to place them directly on the grill without oil. They'll develop a rich char, and it adds an elegant depth of flavor to this simple dish. Just before serving, drizzle with a nice olive oil and a sprinkle of coarse sea salt. One bite of this dish and you'll see why the Batali family welcomes a light salad on any weeknight.

Shiitake Salad With Arugula

Serves 4.

Note: From Mario Batali.

• 1/2 lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms

• 2 bunches arugula, washed and spun dry (about 3 c.)

• 1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 8 oz. chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, for shaving

• Coarse sea salt

Directions

Preheat the grill or broiler.

Carefully cut each mushroom in half. Place on the grill or on a baking sheet under broiler and cook, turning often, until charred and softened, 8 to 10 minutes.

Place the arugula, 1/4 cup olive oil, the lemon juice and zest in large mixing bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss to mix thoroughly. Divide the salad equally among 4 plates.

Remove the hot mushroom caps from the grill or broiler and place over the center of each salad.

Using a vegetable peeler, shave Parmigiano onto each salad, right around the mushroom cap. Spoon 1 tablespoon of remaining olive oil over each salad, sprinkle with coarse sea salt, and serve immediately.