If you go
Dar Kamal Chaoui Maison d’Hotes: The guesthouse is in the old part of Bhalil that still has some dwellings built from caves. The bedrooms, with en suite bathrooms, are decorated with Moroccan textiles, metalwork and wood carvings. There’s also a roof deck where guests can drink mint tea and view the town. The guesthouse is heated by wood and open year-round. Breakfast included; dinner costs about $20. Rooms cost about $95 per night; slightly less December through February (kamalchaoui.com).
Dar Kamal Chaoui Excursions: The guesthouse’s proprietor, Kamal Chaoui, leads guided walking tours of Bhalil, full- and half-day hikes outside of town, and day trips to a cedar forest, a Berber village and weekly market, the 2,000-year-old town of Sefrou with its ancient Jewish quarter, and other nearby sites. Fees are about $58 to $92 per person. Kamal also offers cooking classes with the guesthouse’s cook, Naima, for $35 per person (en.infostourismemaroc.com).