Warm up to the allure of the ice

You may know International Falls as "Icebox of the Nation." The weather gave the old timber town it's nickname. Another aspect of nature -- a gush of water where Rainy Lake pours into Rainy River -- helped give it its name. The natural world makes a strong impression here. There are forestlands, beautiful vistas, lakes and just outside of town, the state's only national park, Voyageurs. Nickname aside, a visit leaves very warm feelings.

Why go now

During winter, International Falls offers prime opportunities for snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice-fishing, wildlife-watching, star-gazing and northern lights watching. The "Blast on the Border" festival (formerly "Ice Box Days") will highlight the outdoor options -- and add a few to the mix. There will be turkey bowling, smoosh races (four people, two skis), children's snow sculptures and a winter camping clinic. The big draw is the Freeze your Gizzard Blizzard Run. The festival is scheduled for Feb. 15 through 18.

National park

The International Falls area boasts miles of groomed scenic trails and immense forestlands, including the islands and waters that make up Voyageurs National Park. The park's Rainy Lake Visitor Center, 10 miles east of International Falls on Hwy. 11, offers workshops, nature hikes, an information desk and a museum (1-218-286-5258).

Don't miss

The Koochiching County Historical Museum displays Indian, gold rush, logging, homesteading and farming artifacts. The Bronko Nagurski Museum commemorates the former Minnesota gopher and NFL great. The two museums share a building in the northeast corner of Smokey Bear Park (1-218-283-4316; call ahead for hours).

Our little secret

I like to bop over the border and head for the Safeway grocery in Fort Frances for Canadian condiments and jams. I love it when the border guards ask, "What's the purpose of your trip," and I reply, "to buy some chili sauce." Also, find nice Canadian fleece items, candy and jam at the duty-free shop. Heads up for next year: You'll need a passport to make the run across the border.

Best winter advice

Bring the Sorels, as well as a long, heavy duty extension cord for your engine-block heater.

Six months out

When things warm up again, it's time to swim, sun, water-ski, boat, canoe, kayak, fish, hike, rent a houseboat, pick some berries and continue to enjoy Minnesota's North Woods.

Freelance writer Naomi K. Shapiro lives in Madison, Wis.

GETTING THERE

International Falls is almost 300 miles north of the Twin Cities. GEOGRAPHY LESSON

International Falls, population 6,700, got its start in the late 1800s as a timber center. Construction of a power dam and paper and saw mills followed. Rich forests in the area remain, ringing 212,000-acre Rainy Lake and lining Rainy River. Fort Frances, Ontario, lies across the Rainy River.

WEATHER CHECK

During January, the coldest month, the monthly average high temperature is 12; the average low is minus 10 degrees. During February, the average high warms to 19. July is considerably more balmy. Average high is 79; average low is 55.

EATING OUT

Join the wool-shirt and Sorel boot crowd at the Border Bar for monster-sized, chin dripping, double-bacon cheeseburgers and fries plus vinegar-and-sugar cole slaw, or chow down some of the best scratch pizza. Plenty of country-western on the jukebox, NASCAR blaring on the TV and locals downing draft beer and boilermakers (1-218-283-9919). There's real chocolate mousse, plus a wide range of excellent sandwiches, salads, wraps and dinner fare at the popular new Chocolate Moose Restaurant Company on the south end of town (1-218- 283-8888). Grandma's Pantry in Ranier (a couple miles east of International Falls) serves a huge and delicious wild-rice pancake (1-218-286-5584).

SLEEPING IN

Area accommodations include numerous Rainy Lake resorts, many motels, a Holiday Inn and several bed-and-breakfasts. The Thunderbird Lodge, 10 miles east of town near the Rainy Lake Visitor Center of Voyageurs National Park, has great lodgings and a dining room, where walleye with secret tartar sauce and toll house pie are must-haves (1-800-351-5133).

VISITOR INFO

Find the International Falls Chamber of Commerce & Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1-800-325-5766.