Tokyo primer

Tokyo's frenzy is only its surface sheen. In every instance where I've thrown myself into the unknown and needed help (at a Japanese-style hotel, in a hot spring bath, at a restaurant without an English menu) someone has stepped forward to offer guidance.

So be brave, and don't let your ignorance stop you. In my experience, Tokyo is populated by kind strangers. Below you'll find my recommendations for a budget-minded but unforgettable week in Tokyo.

Sleeping Japanese

I booked the Family Hotel Kamogawa online, sight unseen. The low price -- $58 a night -- had me worried; would it be a fleabag? Quite the opposite. My cozy suite was elegantly simple, and the location was supreme, a block from the oldest and grandest Buddhist temple in Tokyo, the Senso-ji. Budget ryokan (Japanese style hotels) are a great way to save money and have a cultural adventure. Book the Kamogawa online at www.f-kamogawa.jp/ The Japanese National Tourism Organization has an excellent website with a concise explanation of ryokan and bathhouse courtesy and a search engine for accommodations in any price range. www.japantravelinfo.com

The hot spring way

In Japan, a good hot soak is considered the natural way to wind down at the end of the day, and there is no better way to literally plunge into Japanese culture than to visit a hot spring bath, or onsen. Many are housed in old, temple-like structures, with beautifully designed outdoor tubs and gardens. Onsen, as cultural treasures, are government-subsidized. As a result, admission is no more than 400 yen (about $5).

Signs are usually in Japanese: Ask at your hotel for directions to the nearest one. Etiquette: Follow your fellow bathers' example. Scrub every inch (head to toe) and rinse completely before hopping into the tub.

The cuisine scene

Japanese cuisine is complex, sublime and usually low-fat. Tokyo has the best of it in every genre. A key way to economize is to eat your main meal at lunchtime, when many restaurants have set menus at lower prices. Even street food is healthy and delicious; to save money at dinner, try yakitori (grilled fish and meat), yakisoba (fried noodles with vegetables and meat) or a bowl of fresh soup at the ubiquitous noodle (ramen) houses. Many restaurants display their offerings (in realistic plastic form) in the window, eliminating the language barrier.

Shopping

The Asakusa neighborhood has a great range of old-fashioned Japanese craft shops to explore, and the arcade of stalls in front of the Senso-ji Temple is a favorite of Tokyoites and tourists for souvenirs and gifts (everything from "Hello, Kitty" purses to ink brushes to Buddhist talismans). The narrow alleys next to the temple have ceramics shops, tea shops, textile stores and many other small, craft-oriented businesses. Asakusa is also famous for its restaurant supplies, including funky plastic food displays and beautiful noren, the fabric curtains that hang in front of restaurant doors (some, hand-painted or dyed, make lovely souvenirs). Other favorites: Mitsukoshi Department store in the upscale Ginza neighborhood is the classic place to stop, with its white-gloved greeters and elegant displays. Tokyo has a bizzaro side and one great place to see it is Tokyu Hands, a store full of odd ideas, weird costumes and clocks that run backward. The main location is in the Shibuya area but there are branches in Shinjuku and Ikebukuro.

Ueno

Many of Tokyo's main cultural attractions are in this district, including one of the city's biggest parks, its prettiest temples and best stands of cherry trees. Temples and parks are free, and museum admissions are cheap by world standards. Don't miss the Tokyo National Museum ($4), with its stunning catalog of art through the ages. Highlights include galleries devoted to ink-block prints, samurai swords, helmets and armor and women's kimonos. A nice counterpoint is the Shitamachi Museum ($2), dedicated to the architecture and culture of the working class people who lived "under the castle." Torindo (1-5-7 Sakuragi) is a traditional sweet shop and tea shop just outside the park, where matcha (powdered green tea) is prepared the traditional way and served with matchless elegance. Tea and freshly made adzuki-bean cookies will set you back $10.

Roppongi

The Roppongi Hills development is worth exploring for a number of reasons. For starters, the 54th-floor observation deck, Tokyo View, provides a perspective on just how big and densely built-up Tokyo is. Honda's humanoid robot ASIMO is permanently on display there in a zoolike enclosure, where his handlers demonstrate his impressive motorskills. Just below Tokyo View, the ultra-mod Mori Museum is Tokyo's premier gallery for contemporary art. It's not a bad deal: Admission to museum and deck is 1,500 yen, or about $13.50 at this week's exchange rates. Special exhibitions are extra. More information: www.roppongihills.com

Underground thrills

The subway system itself is worth exploring, and makes getting around Tokyo cheap and easy. Ticket prices vary depending on how far you're going, but most one-ways in the center are between 160 to 190 yen, less than $2. It is worth enduring a little discomfort to experience the morning or evening rush at Shinjuku Station, the city's busiest. The spectacle of the trains disgorging and ingesting tens of thousands of passengers at a time really puts the mass in mass transportation. Chris Welsch • 612-673-7113