It's fun (and, for us cork dorks, kind of exciting) to discover a blend of grapes that have no business working together but somehow do. The 2011 Tygerberg "The Ollo" ($15) combines viognier, gew├╝rztraminer, chardonnay and chenin blanc to great effect. This South African beauty has an amazingly complex nose and layer after layer of flavors (tropical, stone fruit, etc.) and textures, but stays smooth through the ample finish. It's got enough chardonnay for fans of that wine and enough of the others for us geeks. Try it with medium-spice dishes from southern Asia or grilled trout or salmon.

Available at Sunfish, Lakeside, Lowry Hill, France 44, Liberty Village, Kowalski's, South Lyndale and Edina (York Av.).

BILL WARD