Getting There

You must fly to Colombo, with most flights from the central and Eastern U.S. making connections through Europe and the Middle East (we changed in Abu Dhabi); assume 20 or more hours to get there. A ferry from southern India stopped running during the civil war, and has not resumed.

Making a Plan

Tour companies have fully booked and scheduled packages for Sri Lanka; you just show up and they transport, house, guide and feed you. It is also quite possible to arrive, catch a cab and let whim be your guide. We did a hybrid, booking our own flights and some of our own hotels, and then used a small, custom outfitter — TG Travel of Sausalito, Calif. (travelswithteri.com) — for local advice and further bookings. Sri Lanka has a full spectrum of lodging, from $10 homestays to opulent hotel suites.

Getting Around

We sampled a decent survey of Sri Lankan transit options — trains (a legacy of British colonial rule is an extensive, cheap train network, bookable online, though not always far in advance); Tuk-Tuks (the little three-wheeled zoomers are great for around the city and towns, and some will go farther), and a hired driver (affordable flexibility when folded into other bookings). There were also a lot of buses, some of which looked more welcoming than others.

Pointers

Check the monsoon seasons, which vary across the island. Even the smallest towns seemed to have ATMs that took U.S. debit and credit cards. Sri Lanka is a relaxed place, but etiquette at Buddhist temples (shoes off, clothes that cover shoulders and knees) is closely observed. And try as many curries as possible.

Tony Brown