Eastside
"Sweet corn is the definition of summer," said chef Nick Dugan. To prove his point, he ramps up the hot-weather quotient by sneaking in refreshing traces of young coconut into this remarkable recipe. Textural contrasts come in the form of crispy, delicate lobster fritters made with — what else? — white corn meal, along with bacon fat and Wisconsin-made cheese curds. Is it popular? "It's flying out of the kitchen," Dugan said. $12.
305 Washington Av. S., Mpls., 612-208-1638, eastsidempls.com
Meritage
The menu's name for this dreamy sweet corn soup says it all: velouté, which is the French word for velvety. "I just like the texture of refined, smooth soups," said chef Russell Klein. The formula is as uncomplicated as corn on the cob, invoking butter, onions, a bit of bacon fat and lots of sweet corn, and that's it (well, there's also a blender, and a sieve). "It's the simplest soup we make all year long," Klein said. And one of the most — if not the most — impressive. $9.50.
410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670, meritage-stp.com
Spoon and Stable
Chef Gavin Kaysen is crazy about sweet corn. "For me, it's a nostalgic thing," he said, affectionately recalling the farm stand near his parents' Bloomington home. Along with a fresh-from-the-field sweet corn bite, Kaysen's golden gazpacho sports an ingenious yellow tomato/yellow pepper foundation and a sweet surprise from the sea: crab. No wonder sales average 50 servings per night. "It's insane," Kaysen said. "Then again, everyone knows they only have about six weeks until it goes away." $13.
211 N. 1st St., Mpls., 612-224-9850, spoonandstable.com
Rick Nelson • 612-673-4757
@RickNelsonStrib
