You say coleslaw, I say coldslaw. Either way we're talking about the cabbage salad, the staple of picnics, barbecues and potlucks.

Cabbage is the operative word here. These names are derived from the Dutch word "koolsa" for cabbage salad. Slaw, without the cole or cold, refers to any kind of cold shredded vegetable mix. The type of cabbage and the dressing vary with the region and the cook.

Of the cabbages, Napa is my first choice for coleslaw. It's also known as Chinese cabbage, with oblong heads that are pale green. It resembles a cross between romaine lettuce and pale Swiss chard. Napa has a lovely mild flavor that ends with a slightly peppery kick. It's not as sturdy as red or green cabbage, but delivers plenty of crunch.

Cabbage varieties are interchangeable in coleslaw recipes. Savoy cabbage or curly cabbage is the prettiest cabbage with ruffled, deeply ridged leaves that are more loosely layered and less tightly packed than the green or red heads. Bok choy is quite different with its dark leaves growing from a pale central stalk. Its flavor is mild, bright and crisp.

Green cabbage, the most familiar, is solid, compact and long-lasting. A relatively new green variety, the sweetheart cabbage, sports a pointed oval head with tightly wound, paler green leaves that are more tender than traditional green heads. Beautiful magenta red cabbage has more zing than the green; once cut it tends to bleed its colors when mixed with other cabbages.

When choosing any type of cabbage, you want heads that feel heavy for their size with fresh-looking leaves that are not limp or bruised. Store cabbage in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Fresh cabbage will keep for at least a week.

The variations on coleslaw are vast. Texans prefer bold dressings of buttermilk, lime, cumin and jalapeño. West Virginians top hot dogs with a red-slaw tossed in tangy-sweet ketchup vinaigrette. Along the coast of New Hampshire, my fellow students and I devoured creamy mayonnaise-based coleslaw with our lobster rolls.

Up on Madeline Island in Lake Superior, we make a snappy overnight coleslaw with apple-cider vinaigrette to top fried whitefish sandwiches.

Whatever slaw you're after, this salad is a surefire summer classic.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.