Shortcut makes quick work of ramen broth

Egg noodles. I love this innocuous pasta. The rich, tender noodles comfort me when I have a cold, have suffered a challenging day or need to recover from a week of "research eating."

When they are buttery and cheesy, or topped with chicken paprikash, my childhood feels close. Fried crispy and topped with veggies, they make me think of my first trip to New York's Chinatown. Brothy and enlivened with bold seasonings, they prompt me to recall my first Tokyo ramen shop alongside a dear brother.

Perhaps those egg noodles are the reason a great big bowl of ramen proves so appealing. Not the cheap mushy instant ramen of college days; rather, the toothsome noodles nestled in rich broth, alongside chunks of vegetables, egg, roasted pork or chicken.

I enjoy this hearty bowl any time of the day or night, cold weather or warm. Why not make it at home?

Ramen's convoluted history encompasses Chinese noodles and Japanese tastes. The story goes that Chinese cooks in Japan seasoned egg noodles in meat broth with soy sauce for a savory snack. The dish gained popularity in the 1950s for its low price and simplicity.

Ever since, cooks happily tailor the combo into gourmet bowls with international influences. There are thousands of combinations all captured by the name "ramen."

These days, many big cities sport ramen shops plain and fancy. We stop for lunch, pre-theater, post-theater, mid-shopping trip and a savory brunch. At home, a little advance cooking means a weeknight treat packed with flavor, little fat and big satisfaction.

Fortunately, these dried noodles can be kept on the pantry shelf for several months. And they cook fast — 3 to 4 minutes in boiling salted water. Working ahead, you can hold back a bit on the cooking; remove them with tongs to a plate and cool. Just before serving, give them a dunk back into the same boiling water for 30 seconds.

Noodles in hand, let's talk broth. The best bowl of ramen is only as good as the broth. My favorite way to make a well-seasoned broth is in the slow cooker. I can leave it unattended while I'm working and come home to a house that smells good. The slow cooker proves especially welcome in warm weather because it doesn't heat up the house like a stockpot bubbling on the stove.

Diet gurus, health professionals and cookbook publishers rattle on about "bone broth" for good nutrition and hunger satiation. Save for vegetable stock, most stocks are, in fact, bone broths. The bones add flavor to water. Simple as that.

Roast the bones if you like a roasted flavor in your cooking. When it's really warm out, I skip the roasting of the bones and welcome the lighter tasting broth.

Chicken wings make terrific broth — they add flavor and body and just enough fat for satisfaction. Ditto for pork neck bones. The combination yields great flavor for little money. You could stop there; simply roast the bones, add water and simmer away. Alternatively, for a seafood-based broth, use fish bones (not roasted) and shrimp shells and reduce the cooking time by half.

Broth freezes beautifully. I package it in 16-ounce containers for easy thawing. Reheat the broth and season it highly with soy and/or miso paste before using. The following broth recipes are so good that you can drink them from a mug to help stave off hunger. For spicy ramen bowls, dissolve a tablespoon or two of Korean gochujang chili paste in the hot broth. It'll make you perspire on a warm day — trust me, it's worth it.

I like to add grilled chicken thighs and soy-wasabi cooked eggs to my bowl of broth and noodles. I also squirrel away bits of roasted meat and vegetables to tuck into ramen bowls. I especially like charred and roasted flavors in my broth.

Armed with egg noodles and delicious broth, you'll find that a custom bowl of ramen is at your ready. At home, anytime.

Makes about 8 cups.

Note: No slow cooker? Simmer the bones with the kombu water and remaining ingredients in a large pot, stirring often, with the lid partly covering the pot, for 3 to 4 hours. From JeanMarie Brownson, Chicago Tribune.

• 1 1/2 lb. pork neck bones

• 1/4- to 1/2-oz. piece kombu (kelp), optional

• 4 green onions, chopped

• 2 dried shiitake mushrooms, ­broken

• 1/4 c. sake or Chinese rice wine (or dry white vermouth)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put wings and bones on a large baking sheet in an uncrowded layer. Roast, turning once or twice, until golden brown on all sides, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, if using the kombu, heat 10 cups water and the kombu to a boil in a large saucepan. Simmer about 10 minutes. Then let steep while the bones finish browning. Use tongs to remove and discard the kombu.

Transfer the bones with pan drippings to a large (4-quart) slow cooker. Add kombu water (or 10 cups fresh water if not using the kombu) and onions, mushrooms and sake. Cover and slow-cook on low for 8 hours. Strain broth into a container. Refrigerate covered up to 1 week. Freeze up to several months.

Shortcut broth: Simmer 1 quart of store-bought chicken, vegetable or seafood broth (check out your local butcher's house-made broth if possible) with 2 tablespoons of mirin or dry vermouth, 1 or 2 tablespoons miso paste, 1 or 2 thin slices fresh ginger and 1 or 2 teaspoons soy sauce in a saucepan for 10 minutes. Strain before using.

Serves 2.

• 4 c. slow-cooker roasted bone broth or shortcut broth, see recipe

• 2 tbsp. shiro miso, optional, see Note

• 1 to 2 tbsp. soy sauce, to taste

• 1 to 3 tbsp. chili paste or Korean gochujang, optional

• 1/2 c. thinly sliced fresh shiitake mushroom caps (no stems)

• 2 grilled Shichimi Chicken Thighs, thinly sliced, see recipe

• 1 soy wasabi hard-cooked egg, halved, see below

• 2 radishes, very thinly sliced

• 1/4 c. sliced bamboo shoots

• 2 green onions, charred in a skillet or chopped

• Chopped fresh cilantro

• Shichimi togarashi, see Note

Directions

Heat broth in small saucepan until hot. Season to taste with miso, soy sauce and chili paste. The broth should be highly seasoned. Add mushrooms and simmer over low heat.

Have all the remaining ingredients ready and near the cooking surface. Fill 2 deep soup bowls with very hot water to heat the bowls.

When ready to serve, bring the noodle cooking water to a boil again and dunk the noodles back in to reheat, about 20 seconds. Dump the hot water out of the soup bowls. Divide the hot noodles between the heated bowls. Top each with half of the sliced chicken, egg, radish, bamboo shoots, green onions and bean sprouts. Gently ladle hot broth over all. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve right away. Pass the pepper blend at the table.

To make soy-wasabi eggs: Mix 3 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 teaspoon wasabi paste in a small dish. Add 2 peeled hard-cooked eggs. Let soak, turning eggs often, 10 to 20 minutes until eggs are golden in color. Remove from soy bath.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories768Fat26 gSodium1,409 mgSaturated fat8 g

Carbohydrates74 gTotal sugars13 g

Serves 4.

Note: Shichimi togarashi is a Japanese chili pepper spice blend. Combine salt, pepper and crushed red pepper flakes if it is unavailable. From JeanMarie Brownson, Chicago Tribune.

• 4 to 6 medium boneless chicken thighs

• Shichimi togarashi, see Note

• Sesame seeds

Directions

Heat a gas grill or prepare a charcoal grill to medium heat. (Or heat a broiler to medium high.) Meanwhile, generously sprinkle chicken thighs on all sides with shichimi togarashi. Grill chicken directly over the heat source (or on a pan set 8 inches from the broiler), turning once, until almost firm when pressed with your finger or a spatula, usually 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from grill. Sprinkle generously with sesame seeds and green onions.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories314Fat20 gSodium138 mg

Carbohydrates0 gSaturated fat6 gTotal sugars0 g