Assorted sushi plate at Masu. Photo by Tom WallaceMasu Sushi & Robata

The Vikings should be so lucky to have an opening lineup as starry as the one at Masu. The cash behind this game-changing restaurant is Nay Hla, owner of Eagan-based Sushi Avenue, which supplies sushi to supermarkets, colleges and corporate campuses. Hla wisely lured longtime Origami chef Katsuyuki (A-san) Yamamoto to oversee sushi operations, and he's crafting some of the most artful nigiri, sashimi and makizushi in the Twin Cities. But what really sets Masu apart is consulting chef Tim McKee. Venturing outside his comfort zone, the La Belle Vie chef has added robata to his skill set. It's a satisfying way to dine, ordering one tapas-style, one skewered and hardwood charcoal-grilled nibble after another, until your appetite is ready to cry hakufu (that's uncle in Japanese). The 30 or so grill selections cover a lot of ground, from vegetables to a half-dozen seafood items to pork and beef, most of them brushed with a ginger or miso glaze before they hit that grill. Masu really shines in the noodle soup department, with a dozen or so variations that feature soba, udon and ramen, all hand-pulled by a Los Angeles noodle maker and treated with enormous respect. The ramen -- crimped, golden, glorious -- that's paired with a slab of seductively fatty pork belly and a barely poached egg is one of the most memorable dishes currently being served in the Twin Cities. Another standout: the terrific slider-sized sandwiches. They're served at lunch only, a bummer because they could round out the evening menu's short and creative list of izakaya -- the small plates that are an integral part of Japanese pub culture.

Q&A: Alex Chase Executive chef, Masu Sushi & Robata

  • How would you describe the vibe at Masu? Masu is a modern, pop-culture-style neighborhood Japanese restaurant unique to the metro, both in food and in feel.
  • What is your culinary style? We bring the traditional charcoal grilling and noodle culture that's raved about in Japan to Minneapolis. We are also the first sushi restaurant to commit to a fully sustainable seafood menu.
  • Favorite menu item: The pork belly ramen, although I can't seem to not eat my share of the
  • Bacon-Wrapped Quail Egg Robata.
  • What's your ingredient obsession? High-quality bonito flakes.
  • What do you love most about cooking in Minnesota? The great chef community that has solidified over the years.

Hazel's granola-infused pancakes. Photo by Tom WallaceHazel's Northeast

Brothers Adam and Andrew Sieve grew up in the restaurant business. Specifically, the Traveler's Inn Restaurant in Alexandria, Minn., originally owned by grandparents Ben and Helen " Hazel" Sieve. The brothers have returned to the family business, landing in Northeast and delivering comfort-food-with-a-twist at the former Pop! The brothers are serving the foods they grew up eating. Nothing fancy, but wholly satisfying and made from scratch, a mind-set that can be summed up in a single dish: a magnificent open-faced turkey sandwich built with a mountain of succulent dark and white roasted bird, a pile of mashed potatoes and a slice of thick-cut white bread. The whole shebang is smothered in a rich, just-like-Mom-made gravy, with a side of orange-accented cranberry sauce. It's $10, and it seems impossible that it could be consumed by someone in a single seating. There's also a well-seasoned and expertly braised pulled pork sandwich, a half-dozen variations on the burger and a host of salads. Breakfast swings from feisty black bean cakes topped with poached eggs to granola pancakes topped with fruit compote, and dinner includes tasty ground lamb skewers paired with a cucumber-tomato relish, a plate of Swedish meatballs (a Pop! classic, reborn) and a daily risotto. The sweet-sweet-sweet desserts' most notable qualities are their ample proportions. The cute space is peppered with eye-catching works by local artists, most prices fall under $10 and service epitomizes Minnesota Nice. Hazel would probably have demanded nothing less.

USER PICK: Jax Cafe

Last night I had super fresh rainbow trout (which I caught myself from the roaring Jax stream), perfectly prepared and served outside on the very delightful patio. Everything was so wonderful: the cocktails, wine, service, etc. Where can you have fresh rainbow trout for $27? This place is a gem, a treasure, a legacy. Bartenders who know what the hell they are doing! An owner who is on site working his ass off every day and night! Excellent food in an excellent mellow environment! Perfect lighting! Comfortable seating! Elegant and private dining arrangements! A damn coat room! Clean bathrooms! The total package, kids! Sit outside, enjoy fine cocktails, fine steak, seafood and mature professional service. Best of all, drink a couple of perfectly made cocktails and go trout fishing! Every night I pray that this fine business stays open. --dog815

Apple salad from Victory 44. Photo by Richard Tsong-TaatariiUSER PICK: Victory 44

Not for vegans, but for the rest of us, there is much to enjoy. The pluses: great food 70 percent percent of the time (the other times it is only really really good), price points are fantastic, daily specials (such as Tuesday date night: $30 for a two-person tasting menu), creative foods, molecular gastronomy, interesting combinations, knowledgeable staff, and bacon is everywhere. Negatives: Portions vary significantly, though you can generally assume most are on the smaller side. Not a true negative as it allows you to try lots of things, and the meager prices can add up to a pretty significant meal. Service has been spot on for me. Highlights recently include devils on horseback, mussels with spanish squash, melon soup and many more. --PBRmeasap

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Down South beni at the Lowry Cafe. Photo by Tom Wallace

  • THE BULLDOG N.E.: American. Grade-A ingredients, strong technique and creative thinking meet traditional neighborhood pub genre. Although the results are far from fancy, the next-generation bar food exudes obvious smarts and attention to detail. Oh, yeah -- it tastes good, too.
  • CHINDIAN CAFE: Asian. The name reflects the co-owners' collective heritages: Nina Wong was born in Vietnam to Chinese parents, and spouse Thomas Gnanapragasam is third-generation Malaysian with Indian roots. It also mirrors what's going on the kitchen, where a blending of their cooking heritages make for deliciously appealing food.
  • DUSTY'S BAR: American. A Northeast workingman's bar that's haunted by regulars, Dusty's is known for its famous dagos -- sandwiches that combine Italian sausage patties with cheese and a hamburger-like presentation on a bun. Don't mind the not-particularly-polite name of the food -- the owner is part Italian and no offense will be taken. --James Norton
  • GINGER HOP: Asian. This Northeaster fashions a menu of familiar-sounding dishes without making them sound dull, liberally mixing across borders and, occasionally, hemispheres. Sure, there are a few curries, a handful of single-spear satays, spring rolls filled with shrimp and herbs, smoked duck pot stickers, chicken lettuce wraps and fried rice, but there are also dishes with beer undertones, plus many playful quirks.
  • HOLY LAND: Middle Eastern. Top-shelf falafel, hummus and gyros.
  • KRAMARCZUK'S: This institution brings accessible Eastern European deli food to the masses. Specializing in sausages (brats come in flavors such as curry, apple and the hot dried cherry-studded "cherry bomb"), Kramarczuk's is a natural pre-BBQ destination. Its in-house restaurant offers a simple but pleasing menu of Ukrainian favorites. --James Norton
  • LOWRY CAFE: American. An all-American classic (not to be confused with the new Lowry in Uptown) comes to restaurant-starved north Minneapolis. The comfort-minded staples of short-order cooking are all here, and nicely done.
  • MARINA GRILL & DELI: Middle Eastern. Mediterranean basics include gyros and falafel sandwiches, kofta, kebabs and grilled and rotisserie chicken.
  • MAYSLACK'S: American. Mayslack's legendary 1-pound garlic-drenched roast beef sandwiches are as good as ever. Other options include hoagies, sandwiches, broasted chicken and pork chops.
  • UNCLE FRANKY'S: American. Hot dog freaks know Uncle Franky's for its quality toppings, which hit its many varieties of dogs in balanced proportions. A serious hot dog fan's nirvana. --James Norton

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The 14" Johnson from Amici Pizza. Photo by Chandra Akkari

  • AMICI PIZZA AND BISTRO: Selling pizzas that boast a crisp, chewy thin crust and Italian favorites such as cavatappi, antipasti and Caesar salads, Amici has staked out a valuable patch of ground: familiar food executed with passion. --James Norton
  • THE BUTCHER BLOCK: Italian. Casual, midpriced neighborhood trattoria with an emphasis on house-butchered meats.
  • CHIMBORAZO: South American. Pretense-free, this Ecuadorean eatery is the Little Restaurant That Could -- from the llapingachos (cheese-stuffed potato patties) to the camarones encocado (a brightly sauced shrimp dish), food pops with flavor and authenticity. --James Norton
  • ERTE: Contemporary American steakhouse and supper-club atmosphere. Menu may include crab cakes, brisket, roast chicken and sweet-potato fries.
  • GARDENS OF SALONICA: Greek. Soups, salads, fish and lamb, plus a big variety of boughatsas, filo pastries with sweet or savory fillings, all in a very stylish setting.
  • GORKHA PALACE: Indian. A short survey of Nepali, Tibetan and Indian fare including fantastic handmade dumplings; blistered, buttery naan; and paapaddum, the long, delicate lentil crackers. There are several fragrant biryanis and a handful of chicken and lamb items prepared in the kitchen's tandoor oven.
  • KEEGAN'S IRISH PUB: Serving corned beef sandwiches, corned beef dinner, shepherd's pie, poached salmon and a grilled onion, mushroom and tomato boxty (potato pancake) as well as some less Gaelic specialties such as lobster-stuffed chicken and walleye almondine.
  • MILL CITY CAFE: American. Daytime comfort food in the heart of the Northeast arts district.
  • NORTHEAST SOCIAL: American. Go for the congenial surroundings, stay for the engaging, uncomplicated and value-conscious menu. Along with an exceptional roast chicken, other don't-miss items include house-made lamb sausages, as well as the pair of seared scallops served over a heaven-sent combination of crunchy sweet corn, smoky bacon and drops of a pert limoncello syrup. There's a mean burger, too.
  • RED STAG SUPPERCLUB: American. Owner Kim Bartmann reinvents the supper club. The stroganoff, for example, features medium-rare venison with egg noodles and mushrooms. Other highlights: fried smelt in a gossamer-light batter, grilled sardines and pepper-crusted mahi-mahi.
  • THE SAMPLE ROOM: American. Unique neighborhood spot offering mix-and-match sampler plates and entrees featuring an eclectic array of beer-steamed sausages, meatloaf, shrimp, walleye, warm cheeses, breads and more.
  • SEN YAI SEN LEK: Thai. Joe Hatch-Surisook's tightly focused and affordable menu is unlike anything else available in the Twin Cities. It's unthinkable to not order a noodle dish. But don't skip the fabulous lettuce wraps, the marvelous spring rolls or the piping-hot fish cakes.
  • VICTORY 44: American. Victory 44 would stand out anywhere, but the fact that it's located on the restaurant-starved North Side makes it all the more remarkable.
  • WHITEY'S WORLD FAMOUS SALOON: American. A more ambitious menu than the usual saloon. The meatloaf dinner is a tasty rendition of the classic. A smoker on the premises gives barbecued ribs and smoked chicken a definite flavor edge.

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  • NYE'S POLONAISE ROOM: American/ European. A local icon known nationally for its frozen-in-amber atmosphere and multigenerational scene, Nye's is one part piano singalong, one part classic drinks and one part stick-to-your-ribs Eastern European cuisine. --James Norton

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