Resort season at the Brainerd Lakes

At Eagle's Nest Resort north of Brainerd, Minn., it's nearly silent except for the hum of the wind in the white pines, a loon splashing near shore and the drone of Audrey Masimore's vacuum cleaner. She's in cabin No. 4, cleaning top to bottom in anticipation of summer guests. It's been a spring ritual for her and her husband, Steve, for nearly 25 years.

I've come to the Brainerd Lakes area to get a taste of what's available for families that want a close-to-home summer getaway. And what better place? With miles of tree-lined lakeshore and resorts aplenty, this is Mecca for the s'mores-are-us crowd, as well as those who want a few amenities. The Masimores work hard to operate their place in the tradition of the ma and pa resorts that once ruled this area. That means no personal watercraft on the lake, and no TVs or phones in the cabins, which look pretty much as they did nearly 100 years ago.

As he tested the springs of a screen door and contemplated his next project, Steve Masimore said that families come here to look at the stars, hear the cry of the loons and teach their kids to fish. For some, that might sound like a trip to the gulag. But just down the road I found plenty of options for those who can't make it a week without a Wi-Fi connection or a spin on the treadmill. I also discovered savvy -- and eager -- innkeepers who have come up with clever ways to woo budget-conscious travelers.

Eagle's Nest Resort, Nisswa A sign at the entrance says, "No pets, no jets," and that sets the tone for the kind of clients this classic resort aims to attract. During the nearly 100 years it's been in business, not much seems to have changed, and that's just the way the Masimores want it. The cabins have plumbing and there's a fridge and stove, but these rustic lakeside cabins are not insulated and the furniture seems artfully unmatched.

The neighborhood: Nisswa is away from the hubbub of the nearby Brainerd-Baxter area, which is about 20 minutes south. Need a latte? You can walk to downtown Nisswa, which has survived -- and even thrived -- by evolving to meet the needs of tourists. You can still buy "good old-fashioned malts" at Garley's, but now you can also get fresh sushi every Friday at Shafer's grocery. The resort is about 15 steps from the popular 77.6-mile Paul Bunyan Trail. Steve Masimore says that proximity to the trail now rivals fishing as a leading draw to the resort.

The lake: At 512 acres, Lower Cullen Lake is like a pond compared with nearby Gull Lake, and there's water access to larger lakes. You won't have to worry about your blow-up water toys getting hit by a speedboat.

The crowd: Most are repeat customers who appreciate that the resort is clean, quiet and unchanged. It helps that the Masimores have been a constant. Steve recently attended a funeral for the patriarch of a family that has come here for at least three generations to enjoy the quiet and the sun, and to play bocce ball.

Lodging: 15 cabins ranging from efficiencies to three-bedroom units. Most have screened porches with a view of the lake. Go to www.eagles nestnisswa.com for specifics.

Recreation: A tot-lot, sandy shoreline, water volleyball, fishing boats, biking, canoes, swing set and nature programs for kids. There's a giant tepee, too.

Cost: From Aug. 22 through Sept. 4, weekly prices range from $375 for an efficiency to $1,470 for a three-bedroom cabin. There are few upcharges and kids are included in cabin rates.

How to score the best deal: Cheapest rates are during the weeks that include the Memorial Day and Labor Day holidays.

Also worth considering: The Good Ol' Days Family Resort (www.goodoldaysresort.com) is nearly next door to the Eagle's Nest and is likely to appeal to those who want a more upscale cabin vacation. A few years ago all of the original little white cabins -- not unlike those at Eagle's Nest -- were replaced with 10 deluxe townhouse-style "cabins" and eight lodge units in the Arts and Crafts-style.

Want bigger water? There are several ma and pa resorts on nearby Gull Lake, including the off-the-charts charming Lykins Pinehurst Resort (www.pinehurstongull.com), which has nine units under cover of tall white pines, and Sandy Beach Resort (www.sandy beachresort.net), a no-frills classic with 31 yellow and white cabins along a wide sugar-sand beach that wraps idyllically around a point. All of these resorts are family-owned.

Ruttgers's Bay Lake Lodge, Deerwood Ruttger's is a full-service resort with a golf course, restaurant and spa, open seasonally. During an early-season weekday visit I had the whole place nearly to myself, but still had access to the restaurant in the super-classic lodge, where the chef was also the server.

The spot: Bay Lake is about 20 minutes east of the busy Brainerd/Baxter area, but seems worlds away in many respects. There's relatively little commercial and residential development in the area and the nearest town, Deerwood, doesn't offer much in the way of shopping and eating. That's a good thing if you're here to escape.

The lake: Located along the western shores of Bay Lake, the resort faces Malkerson Island, which has a wooded, undeveloped shoreline that makes you feel far, far away.

The crowd: Families, golfers and convention guests.

Lodging: Ruttger's has been in the same family for 80 years, and many of its 167 units are original shoreline cottages, but the resort now has a wide range of options, including nearly new townhouses adjacent to the resort's 27 holes of golf. There are several other options, including basic hotel-style units geared toward business guests.

Recreation: Golf, boating, water activities, fishing.

Cost: Prices are as low as $98 per adult per night at various times of the year, but expect to spend $200 to $300 per night per adult during summer. Check www.ruttgers.com for details.

How to score the best deal: Come during the shoulder season, or take advantage of special packages, such as a golf package (starting at $156 per night) or the family value days (July 5-12), which start at $165 per night. Ruttger's also offers special two- to four-night packages. Like many family resorts in this area, Ruttger's is a meal-plan resort, which means that most rates include breakfast and dinner. Rates are per adult; charges for children vary according to lodging type and package, so don't make any assumptions.

Also worth considering: Grand View Lodge (www.grandviewlodge.com) on Gull Lake has 155 units, is on the National Register of Historic Places and has a full range of services, including convention space and a posh spa. Just down the road on Sylvan Lake, Kavanaugh's Resort (www.kavanaughs.com) has 52 upscale cottages and townhouses next to 108 holes of golf. The Quarterdeck Resort (www.quarterdeckresort. com) is a year-round resort with 44 cabins and lakeside "villas" on Gull Lake.

Madden's Resort Madden's, Breezy Point and Cragun's have more than 200 units each, and there's something for everyone. I chose Madden's in part because it has a new upscale restaurant I wanted to try. When I checked in, I was told that the options nearest the historic lodge building were full because of a business meeting. So I picked a small one-room cabin overlooking Wilson Bay, where I had almost exclusive use of one of five swimming pools. Although I was near the pizza parlor and art gallery, cottage No. 4107 had a serious Up North factor with a stone fireplace and a squeaky chipmunk that kept me company while I watched the sun set from my deck.

The spot: A park-like 1,000-acre peninsula on Gull Lake with sandy beaches, ponds and walking paths.

The crowd: The wallpaper in the lobby men's room has a golf ball and tee pattern. And there's a sign at the main entrance that asks you to remove your cleats before entering. Madden's and its sister resorts work hard to woo golfers, but it's also a place for families that want the all-inclusive experience.

Lodging: There are simple motel rooms, cozy log cabins and suburban-style townhouses overlooking the golf course. The resort is part Colonial-style suburban subdivision, part New England village and part Adirondack camp. The European plan includes lodging only, while the modified American plan includes some meals, recreation and golf. Prices start at about $180 per night per adult. That doesn't include children and other upcharges.

Recreation: If it involves a ball, you can do it at Madden's. In addition to 63 holes of golf, there's a tennis and croquet club. Fishing is big, too. Madden's has its own marina, with bait, boats and guide service available.

How to score the best deal: Madden's and the others are now offering off-season rates, weekday specials and three- and four-day packages. Also check out the 10 percent discount for weeklong stays.

Also consider: Cragun's (www.craguns.com) on Gull Lake has a slightly more rustic feel. It has 363 rooms and 54 holes of golf and is known for its indoor water park. Breezy Point (www.breezypoint resort.com) is on nearby Pelican Lake and has several restaurants, pools and its own summertime Elvis impersonator, along with 250 lodging units and three golf courses.

MORE INFORMATION

Go to www.explorebrainerdlakes.com for a directory of other resorts and lodging options, including in-town hotels and motels with water parks.

Jim Buchta • 612-673-7376