PEAR CHUTNEY

Makes about 3 cups.

Note: I fell in love with chutneys years ago during visits to the Caribbean, where they are served with ham, cold cuts, roast pork, filled pastries known as beef patties, leftover chicken and stews, as well as a side dish for curries. The influence here is East Indian. The word chutney is derived from the Hindu word "chatni," which is used for a variety of sweet and spicy condiments. Pears and raisins give this dish a mellow flavor.

• 8 or so ripe but not mushy Seckel pears or about 6 Bosc pears (for about 2 lb.)

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped

• 1 c. raisins, either dark or golden

• 3 or 4 tbsp. finely chopped or grated fresh ginger or

• 2 tsp. ground ginger

• 1 or 2 tsp. grated orange or lemon peel

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely minced

• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon or 3 cinnamon sticks broken into pieces

• 1/2 tsp. ground clove or allspice

• 1/2 tsp. hot pepper flakes or 1 jalapeño pepper, finely chopped,

• 1/2 c. sugar, or to taste

• 1 c. cider vinegar

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• Freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Rinse and drain the pears, and pat dry with toweling. Peel the fruit, core, and then chop coarsely, into about 1/2- inch pieces.

Place the fruit in a heavy medium-size saucepan, along with the onions, raisins, ginger, orange or lemon peel, garlic, cinnamon, clove or allspice, red pepper flakes or jalapeño pepper, and sugar. Stir in the cider vinegar, salt and black pepper and mix well.

Place the saucepan on medium high heat and bring to a boil, stirring well. Then, lower the heat to simmer and continue cooking and stirring the sauce for 1 to 11/2 hours, or until it is the consistency of thick jam, and almost all of the liquid is absorbed. Make sure to stir often from the bottom of the pan to prevent it from scorching.

The chutney is ready when the pears are translucent and the mixture is thick, dark and syrupy. Pack the hot chutney into jars, cover with lids, and let cool before storing in the refrigerator.

PEAR SALSA

Makes about 3 cups.

Note: This dish goes fast at holiday parties. Good pear variety choices are Asian pear, Bartlett, Comice and Anjou, all juicy and mellow.

• 1 or 2 tbsp. mild-flavored oil such as almond or grapeseed

• 1/4 c. chopped cilantro or Italian parsley or fresh mint

• 1 or 2 chile peppers, such as jalapeño, cored and finely chopped

• 1 or 2 garlic cloves, crushed

• 2 to 3 tbsp. tequila

• Pinch of salt

• Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

• 2 c. peeled and finely diced pear

• 1/2 medium red onion, finely diced

• 1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored and diced

Directions

Whisk together in a medium-sized glass or porcelain bowl the oil, cilantro or parsley or mint, chile peppers, garlic, tequila, salt and the black pepper.

Stir in the diced pear, onion and bell pepper and mix gently to combine well. Cover the bowl and marinate the salsa at least 3 hours, preferably at room temperature, and then cover and chill slightly, if desired.

Serve as a side dish with roast or smoked turkey, or baked ham or chicken.

Variation: Substitute 2 or 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger for the cilantro, parsley or mint.

WARM PEAR COMPOTE

Makes about 3 cups.

Note: This compote is a fine topping for ice cream, cantaloupe or honeydew melon, bread pudding, plain cake or weekend waffles and pancakes.

• 4 large ripe pears, preferably Bosc or Anjou variety, about 2 lb.

• 1/2 to 1 c. light brown sugar, firmly packed

• 2 tbsp. cornstarch

• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon or allspice

• 2 c. pineapple or apple juice or fruit nectar

• 2 tbsp. brandy or dark rum

• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

Directions

Peel and core the pears and cut into eighths. Set aside.

In a medium-size saucepan, combine the brown sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon or allspice. Stir in the juice or fruit nectar and mix well. Place the pan on medium-high heat and cook the sauce, stirring, until the mixture is smooth. Add the pears and bring the sauce to a gentle boil.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 15 or 20 minutes, or until the pears are just tender, almost translucent, and the syrup is thick. Stir in the rum and butter, and heat a few minutes longer.

CHOCOLATE PEARS

Makes 6 servings.

Note: Years ago my niece, Renee, sent me this elegant recipe that quickly became a favorite. Fresh pears are poached in a spicy, orange-infused sauce, and then topped with a silky chocolate sauce. So divine.

• 1 orange

• 1 c. granulated sugar

• 3 c. water

• 4 or 5 whole cloves or allspice berries

• 6 firm but ripe large pears with stems, preferably Bosc or Anjou variety

• 2 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder

• 4 oz. semi or bittersweet chocolate

• 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Directions

Using a vegetable peeler, cut the peel from the orange in strips, avoiding the white pith, which is bitter. Then cut the peel into matchstick 1-inch strips.

In a large stainless steel saucepan or Dutch oven combine the orange peel strips, sugar, water and cloves or allspice berries. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, rinse the pears and cut away any blemishes. Leaving the stems intact, start at the top and peel the pears about 3/4 of the way down. Cut a thin slice off the bottom of each pear so that they stand upright with out tilting over.

Set the pears upright in the pot. Using a large spoon, ladle the orange-flavored poaching liquid over the pears. Cover the pot. Poach the pears for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender throughout when pierced with a skewer, occasionally ladling over the poaching syrup. (This can be done a couple days in advance and the pears can remain in the poaching liquid, in the refrigerator. For more flavor, lay pears on their sides in the liquid and occasionally ladle over the poaching liquid.)

Remove the pears from the pan with a slotted spoon and set upright on a serving dish. Chill the pears.

Place the pan on medium-high heat and cook the poaching liquid until it is reduced by half in volume, and is thick and syrupy. You should have about 11/2 cups of cooking liquid; if you have more, boil it a little longer.

Remove the pan from the heat. Whisk in the cocoa and chocolate, beating until the mixture is smooth. Set the pan over medium-low heat and whisk in the vanilla extract and butter. Cook 4 or 5 minutes, stirring, or until the sauce is heated through.

Pour the syrup through a fine strainer into a serving bowl. Cool the sauce at room temperature. The sauce should thicken to a honey-like consistency. At serving, spoon the chocolate sauce over the chilled pears. If desired, serve with cookies.

BRANDIED PEARS

Makes 4 generous servings.

Note: I love these pears topped with vanilla ice cream, or spooned over plain cake and graced with a swirl of whipped cream; a heady treat. A jar or two makes a lovely holiday gift. For recipes on how to can brandied peaches and other fall fruits, see my dessert cookbook, "Brown Sugar: Soul Food Desserts From Family and Friends" (HarperCollins).

• 8 firm but ripe pears, such as the Bosc, Anjou or large-size Seckels

• 21/2 c. water

• 21/2 c. sugar, or to taste

• 1/2 tsp. cloves

• 1 tsp. ground ginger

• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon

• 1/2 to 3/4 c. good-quality brandy

Directions

Select medium-size firm but fully ripe pears that are free of bruises and blemishes. Remove stems and discard, and then peel. Cut the fruit in half lengthwise and core . Place the pears in a glass bowl and set aside.

To make the syrup: Combine in a large pot the water, sugar, cloves, ginger and cinnamon. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat and simmer the syrup uncovered for 10 to 12 minutes or until slightly thickened.

Using the wooden spoon, add the pears to the hot syrup, and stir to coat well. Raise the heat under the pears and bring the syrup to a gentle boil, carefully turning over the fruit with the spoon.

Cook the pears, turning occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes or until tender but not too soft when pierced with a fork. Watch the fruit carefully and don't let it scorch.

Remove the pears from the heat and stir in the brandy. Remove the pan from the heat and set on a wire rack to cool. Then, transfer the pears to a glass or porcelain bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Chill completely before serving.