Rose Street Patisserie isn't a carbon copy of its willpower-destroying sibling, Patisserie 46. There are lots of similarities, however. Happy ones. Why not borrow from the best?
For his foray into Linden Hills, baker/owner John Kraus offers roughly the same complement of breads, exquisite pastries and simple sweets that have made his P46 such a runaway hit.
But Rose's roomier real estate — it's tucked behind Upton 43, in a dramatic two-story room designed by Peterssen/Keller Architecture of Minneapolis, with an assist from Elizabeth Rose, Kraus' partner — affords some extra-special treats.
A glorious avocado toast, for starters: slices of Kraus' rustic, seed-packed multigrain piled high with a gaucamole-like lemon- and vinegar-infused avocado purée. Right now it's finished with radishes and delicate peas; soon it'll get a cold-weather variation. I can't wait, and I never say that about winter.
Another treat? Pizzas. The oblong pies boast a thin, chewy crust (it's a ciabatta derivative), and Kraus tops them with smoky bacon and sunny side-up eggs at breakfast, or a modest tomato-cheese combination for the afternoon. Salads? Beautiful. Soups? Even better, particularly now, when Kraus' favorite root vegetable, celeriac, rules the produce aisle.
Speaking of vegetables, we're back to where we started: a tartine (the French open-face sandwich) that starts with a purée of sweet butternut squash and celery root, topped with a scattering of roasted carrots and crunchy pumpkin seeds, all on a spear of Kraus' whole-wheat sourdough. When lunch is this delicious, who needs pork?
Nothing on the menu exceeds $12, and there's a short, does-the-trick wine and beer selection. Of course, the notion of skipping dessert is preposterous. The sweets are displayed in vitrines worthy of JB Hudson — the only missing element is the black velvet background, but crumbs would make that impractical — and Kraus' handiwork is frequently the equivalent of precious gems.
A cake dubbed the "Tristan 19" is a prime example. It's a transporting excursion into tropical fruits, hazelnuts and vanilla, a luxury that can be had for the decidedly un-Platinum Card price of just $5.75. How great is that?
2811 W. 43rd St., Mpls., 612-259-7921, patisserie46.com. Open 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
Rick Nelson • 612-673-4757
