IF YOU GO

Deciding how to spend your time outside the walls of Old San Juan can be a challenge because Puerto Rico is big, and there's so much to do. Many people simply spend their time at one of the many all-inclusive resorts that line the beachfront. Using Luquillo as a base, I spent my days building sand castles at Luquillo Beach, hiking in a rain forest and island hopping.

LUQUILLO

Where: About 30 miles from San Juan.

Lodging: I stayed at the Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn (www.luquillosunrise.com) which is just across the street from the beach. Rooms are spotless, staff is charming and some of the 14 rooms have ocean views. My nightly rate was $125, including a delicious homemade breakfast served in a room overlooking the ocean.

Restaurants: My far and away favorite restaurant within walking distance from my hotel was Pasta y Pablo, where chef Freddie is likely to step out of the tiny kitchen to check on your food. Don't miss the shrimp with coconut rice; I had it three nights in a row. Another popular option is Sandy's Seafood, which is a block from the main square and draws people from all over Puerto Rico. Try the jalapeños stuffed with lobster and shrimp.

EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST

Where: About 45 minutes southeast of San Juan.

Lodging: Luquillo Beach is about 20 minutes from the park entrance, but there are dozens of other options, including a few all-inclusive resorts in Fajardo and some small resorts that border the forest.

Eating: A couple of modest food kiosks inside the park serve local fare, so no need to pack a lunch.

Cost: Entrance to the El Portal Visitor Center is $3 for adults.

Hours: Daily from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Details: The forest is home to more than 240 plants, 26 of which are endemic to the island. It is also home to 50 bird species, including the critically endangered Puerto Rican Amazon. It contains more than 600 uncommon species of plants and animals, including 48 that are endangered and 16 endemic to Puerto Rico. For a strenuous hike, head toward Mount Britton.

More info: www.fs.fed.us/r8/caribbean/ or call 1-787-888-1880.

CULEBRA

Where: Catch the public ferry from Fajardo ($4.50 round-trip) or fly. There are also private boat charters. Info at www.islaculebra.com/puerto-rico/culebra-ferry-schedule.html.

Lodging: I didn't stay overnight. If I had, I would have stayed right on Flamenco Beach at Culebra Beach Villas, or I would have camped on the beach itself. But there are lots of other options elsewhere on the island. Mike McCarty sells real estate on the island and manages vacation rentals. He's at www.culebravacation planners.com.

Eating: I had delicious rice and beans at the food kiosks at Flamenco Beach, but you'll also find several other options. Don't miss Mamacita's, which is the hub of activity in downtown Dewey, Culebra's only town. There's always live music, too.

JIM BUCHTA