Finding America in Kansas City

At one moment, I was immersed in the intrigue of sunken treasures recovered from a 19th-century "floating Wal-Mart." At the next, I became overcome with emotion -- tears, laughter, angst -- at the beautifully designed Negro Leagues Baseball Museum.

Kansas City, Mo., also chronicles the fascinating history of American jazz and World War I and showcases fine art and architecture. You'll also find the best barbecue outside of Texas.

Kansas City offers an array of enticements. A $5 billion investment has re-energized the city's inner core, especially the Power & Light District, an eight-block dining and entertainment hub.

There was never any debate that African-American baseball players hit, ran and fielded with equal or better abilities than their white counterparts. But not until 1945, when the Brooklyn Dodgers signed Jackie Robinson, were they allowed into the major leagues. The Negro Leagues Baseball Museum pays tribute to these gifted athletes, who didn't always toil in obscurity: The Kansas City Monarchs, where Robinson and legendary pitcher Leroy "Satchel" Paige played, frequently drew more than 40,000 fans, many of them white.

Exhibits and videos flank a circular walkway that surrounds the Field of Legends, where life-size bronze statues honor 12 Negro Leagues heroes. Visitors are purposely segregated from the field until they complete the tour.

The personalities profiled include a rookie for the Indianapolis Clowns who in 1952 answered to "Pork Chops," a nickname alluding to his favorite food. Unlike most Negro Leagues stars, Pork Chops eventually played in the major leagues where he became known as Hammerin' Hank Aaron. Even those not addicted to sports likely will be moved. (1616 E. 18th St.; www.nlbm.com)

Sharing the same building as the baseball shrine, the American Jazz Museum pays homage to Count Basie, Charlie Parker and other musicians who thrived in the city's 18th & Vine Jazz Historic District (1616 E. 18th St.; americanjazzmuseum.org).

The nationally acclaimed Nelson-Atkins Museum's 33,500-piece collection includes works by Van Gogh, Gauguin and Goya as well as Winslow Homer, John Singer Sargent and Georgia O'Keeffe. Don't overlook an outstanding Asian art collection (4526 Oak St.; www.nelson-atkins.org). The Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art is nearby at 4420 Warwick Av. (www.kemperart.org).

Country Club Plaza, the nation's first suburban shopping district, also will delight any admirer of art and architecture. Dating to 1922, the plaza (310 Ward Parkway) covers 15 blocks with a European-inspired, open-air art gallery, sculptures, murals and fountains, plus a 130-foot-tall reproduction of the Giralda Tower in Seville, Spain. (www.countryclubplaza.com)

The landmark Union Station thrives anew after a $250 million restoration. Dedicated by President Woodrow Wilson in 1914, Union Station developed into the nation's second busiest rail hub (behind Chicago) by mid-century. It now houses attractions including Science City (sciencecity.com), with a dinosaur lab and planetarium; a five-story 3-D movie theater; and two comprehensive rail experiences, one a working model railway. (30 W. Pershing Road; www.unionstation.org)

Extend the transportation theme at the National Airline History Museum (www.ahmhangar.com) at Wheeler Downtown Airport. The airport's Hangar 9 is home to three vintage aircraft. Walk through a restored Lockheed Super G Constellation, built in 1958. Relive the adventures of aviation pioneers Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart and Howard Hughes. View old airline menus, timetables and uniforms. One room is dedicated to the origin and evolvement of stewardesses -- an appropriate word in the beginning -- who, a guide informed, "had to be a registered nurse, couldn't wear glasses and, if you were 5 pounds overweight, you had 10 days to lose it or lose your job."

The Arabia Steamboat Museum (400 Grand Blvd.; www.1856.com) has attracted more than 2 million visitors over the years with its tale of the 171-foot-long Arabia, which struck a tree trunk in the Missouri River in 1856. The boat sank with a 2-ton cargo load of Wedgwood china from England, French perfumes and enough leather boots, wagon wheels, tools and other goods to supply entire frontier towns. All 130 passengers and crew survived, but for almost a century-and-a-half the Arabia remained buried. In 1988, treasure hunters found the steamer entombed 45 feet beneath a cornfield.

"If you are what you eat, Kansas Citians are crusty on the outside, sweet and tender on the inside," says author and barbecue authority Doug Worgul.

Befitting its location in America's heartland, Kansas City barbecue combines techniques from across the nation. "Pulled pork from the Carolinas, wet and dry ribs from Memphis, brisket and German sausages from Texas -- it's all here," Worgul says. "We didn't invent barbecue, but we perfected it."

Must-try establishments include Arthur Bryant's (www.arthurbryantsbbq.com) and Gates Bar-B-Q (www.gatesbbq.com). Both originated downtown and have expanded to several locations. Neither is fancy, but they've served U.S. presidents, Hollywood celebrities, athletes and legions of loyal locals.