Let's be clear about eggplant. You do not have to salt the slices before cooking, though many recipes claim that doing so tames bitterness and draws out excess water.

After testing both approaches, I've found that there is really no reason to do this with a fresh, locally grown eggplant that's been harvested before it's overly mature and eaten within a few days. Our farmers are harvesting eggplant that's been bred to be firm, slightly nutty, slightly sweet, and creamy when properly cooked. This goes for any eggplant variety. Plus, who has time to haul out the colander and wait for the eggplant to drain?

The only trick to cooking eggplant is to do so for a long enough time. If roasting eggplant in slices or cubes, toss them with oil, lightly salt and spread on a baking sheet far enough apart so they don't touch and steam. You want them nicely caramelized on both sides. When sautéing, don't crowd the pan and keep them moving so they're thoroughly browned before adding other ingredients such as tomatoes.

Remarkably versatile, eggplant's neutral nature takes nicely to the bold flavors of North Africa, the Mediterranean, India and Asia, and the meaty texture makes for substantial side dishes and satisfying light suppers.

Right now, our local eggplants are at their peak, and you'll find them in gorgeous mounds in our markets — the large purple globe, the long slender Asian and the darling baseball-size white varieties.

Look for eggplant with shiny, smooth, unwrinkled skins that feel hard. It's best to store eggplant in a cool, dark place rather than the refrigerator. Members of the nightshade family — which includes tomatoes and eggplants — do not do well with the chill and damp that diminishes the flavor.

Oven-roasted eggplant slices offer a range of simple options. Serve them as an appetizer with a side of hummus or olive tapenade; chop and toss with a whole-grain pilaf. Or top them with tomato sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese and bake until bubbly.

For other options, drizzle slices with lemon juice as a side dish to roast chicken or layer slices on pizza. They are also good stuffed into pita with feta cheese.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.