Cucumbers offer coolest taste of summer

The best way to eat a garden-fresh cuke is between two slices of very fresh bread spread thickly with unsalted butter and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. After that, the options are endless, refreshing and delicious. Cucumbers are hitting the farmers market this week, so don't wait.

There are two basic cucumbers: those for slicing and those for pickling. The pickling cucumber is stubby, with a warty, rough skin and a slightly drier flesh. The familiar slicing cucumber is smooth-skinned and can be seedy and a little watery. My favorite, the English cucumber, is thin, about a foot long and seedless. They are the easiest to work with and to digest (these are often called burpless). The lemon cucumber, about the size and color of the fruit it is named for, was recently introduced to our markets, and is delicate and sweet-tasting.

When shopping, look for cucumbers that are firm, never soft or flaccid. Store them in the crisper in the refrigerator and use them as soon as you can. After about three days, they begin to lose their moisture and can quickly turn bitter.

Many recipes suggest salting the cucumbers, draining them in a colander, and then rising in cold water right before using to help reduce any bitterness. But when the cucumbers are young and fresh, there's really no need for that step.

A cucumber's crisp texture pairs beautifully with lush avocado and creamy cheeses. Cucumbers and melons work beautifully together in salads (the two are related botanically) along with lots of mint.

Here are two cucumber classics that are so easy you really don't need a recipe to toss them together (just taste as you go). Stay cool as a cucumber as summer heats up.

To seed cucumbers: If the seeds are bigger than peppercorns, you'll want to scrape them out. Slice the cucumber in half lengthwise, run a teaspoon down the center to scoop out the seeds, then slice horizontally on the bias for an elegant half-moon shape.

Cucumber-melon salad: This makes a bright salsa for chips or to serve over grilled lamb. Toss together equal amounts of diced cucumber and honeydew melon or cantaloupe with a glug of peppery olive oil, lemon juice and lots of chopped fresh mint. Toss in crumbled feta or black olives to taste, and season with salt and pepper. Serve cold.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: To remove seeds, cut the cucumber in half lengthwise, run a teaspoon down the middle, scoop them out and discard. Any leftover dressing will keep for a week in the refrigerator. Try it on grilled fish or as a dip for veggies. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 garlic cloves, smashed

• 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• 1/2 c. whole-milk plain yogurt

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 large cucumbers, thinly sliced (see Note)

• 2 to 3 tbsp. crumbled feta, for garnish

• Thin strips of lemon peel, for garnish

Directions

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, lemon zest and lemon juice. Then whisk in the yogurt and oil, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the salad: Toss together the cucumbers and onion, then toss in enough of the dressing to lightly coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish the salad with the feta and the lemon zest.

Calories80Fat6 gSodium40 mg

Carbohydrates7 gSaturated fat2 gTotal sugars3 g

Protein2 gCholesterol5 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 1 fat.

Serves 4 to 6

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 4 medium to large cucumbers, thinly sliced (see Note)

• 1 bunch red radishes, thinly sliced

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

Nutrition information per each of 6 servings:

Calories55Fat4 gSodium10 mg

Carbohydrates5 gSaturated fat2 gTotal sugars2 g

Protein1 gCholesterol10 mgDietary fiber2 g