ON THE NORTH SHORE — On Wednesday between Duluth and Grand Marais, the tempestuous first day of May was as cruel as any 24 hours April has ever mustered. In places a foot of snow masked the ground, and streams from the Lester to the Gooseberry, and farther north to the Poplar and Cascade, spilled and tumbled toward Lake Superior, whose breakers crashed spectacularly against ancient rock.
This would be no day for seeking walleyes, nor northern pike nor the most delectable of Minnesota finned species, the bluegill. It was marginal even for our quarry of choice, steelhead, given that the delayed spring has kept North Shore streams so frigid these migratory rainbows have been hesitant to swim upriver to reproduce.
"Thirty-five degrees,'' a Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) creel survey technician reported when Dave Zentner and I bumped into him Wednesday afternoon and inquired about stream temperatures. "That's cold.''
Inclement conditions notwithstanding, including voluminous rivers stained mahogany by the rush of melting snow, Dave and I planned an honest stab at steelheading, a sport whose spring season often is endured during some of the Minnesota's wickedest weather.
Angling north from Duluth, revisiting once again Hwy. 61, Dave and I saw no anglers working the Lester, a southernmost North Shore stream, and scant few on the Knife, which in late April and early May often flows like a steelhead ATM, in which anglers insert brightly colored yarn flies and receive in return big, beautiful, fighting fish.
"If there were steelhead in those rivers, more fishermen would be fishing them,'' said Dave, who lives in Duluth.
A graduate many years ago of the University of Minnesota Duluth, where in more recent times administrators have hung signs throughout campus warning students not to clean smelt in dormitory bathrooms, Dave, it can be fairly said, is no less a part of this state's northeastern quadrant than its eagles, wolves, moose, deer and fish — the last group including, perhaps especially, his beloved steelhead.
Yet while we drove north, Dave icould envision steelhead not in the streams we crossed, enjoying ideal spawning temperatures of about 40 degrees, but instead hanging just off shore, beneath Lake Superior's choppy surface, their gills flaring as they bided their time, waiting for warmer water.