After financial woes, a sweet solution for Duluth bakery

Eileen Brown has brought the goods loved at How Sweet It Is Cakes to the Du­luth Grill.

November 25, 2017 at 10:05PM
Eileen Brown, owner of How Sweet It Is Cakes, works in new space inside the Duluth Grill
Eileen Brown, owner of How Sweet It Is Cakes, worked recently in her new space inside the Duluth Grill. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

How Sweet It Is Cakes, a ba­kery in down­town Du­luth, had out­grown its space three years ago. Own­er Ei­leen Brown was de­light­ed to make a deal to move to a new lo­ca­tion, where she agreed with the land­lord to pay for part of a new kitch­en.

Then her cake busi­ness, with its ar­tis­tic con­fec­tions in the shape of birch logs, build­ings or any­thing else a cus­tom­er could i­mag­ine, went a little sour.

The kitch­en cost more than she had an­tic­i­pated, busi­ness slowed and a fam­i­ly mem­ber faced some se­ri­ous health prob­lems. The stress took a toll on Brown's health, too, giv­ing her com­pli­ca­tions from high blood pres­sure.

At the end of Oc­to­ber, she de­cid­ed to call it quits. Rather than file for bank­rupt­cy, Brown said, she de­cid­ed to close up shop, make good on cakes or­dered for de­liv­er­y over the next sev­er­al days, then re­fund any or­ders af­ter that. She tried to help her staff of 26 — a group she con­siders fam­i­ly — find oth­er work.

"We want­ed to ful­fill all our ob­li­ga­tions," Brown said. "We closed the doors and gave a bunch of stuff away to food shelves."

Shut­ting down felt like a death, she said. The ba­kery was part of her daily life for 22 years, near­ly 11 of them in Du­luth. Cus­tom­ers mourn­ed its loss, too. People stopped by to wish Brown well in the ba­kery's last days.

"We knew that we loved the com­muni­ty," she said. "We didn't re­al­ize how much the com­muni­ty loved us."

Then, she re­ceived a very sweet of­fer.

A man who had once worked as her op­er­ations man­ag­er and now works for the Du­luth Grill con­tacted her and asked her to con­sider an al­ter­na­tive: Would Brown con­sider bring­ing her skills there?

The Du­luth Grill had be­come a re­vered local res­tau­rant and ca­ter­ing busi­ness that prides it­self on using fresh, local and or­gan­ic in­gre­di­ents. Own­ers Tom and Jaima Han­son are al­ways look­ing to try their hands at vari­ous as­pects of the in­dus­try, Tom said. They got to know Brown's work when they would cater an e­vent and find her cakes there.

"The cakes are some­thing you would find in a big-city en­vi­ron­ment," Tom Han­son said.

Han­son and Brown met and soon de­cid­ed to work to­gether.

"It was re­al­ly a­bout keep­ing an in­sti­tu­tion here in Du­luth," Han­son said. "To have that as part of our port­fo­li­o was just a de­sire."

Now it's How Sweet It Is Cakes At the Du­luth Grill, and Brown is a­gain tak­ing cake or­ders. She's also work­ing on a full list of sweets to be sold on the Grill's menu and for take­out from the front count­er, in­clud­ing macarons, éclairs, cup­cakes and oth­er dec­a­dent treats.

Han­son, who has been in the in­dus­try for 39 years, said he's al­ways kind of tak­en an un­der­dog at­ti­tude.

While he doesn't ex­pect sky­rock­et­ing rev­e­nue off add­ing the cakes and sweets to his busi­ness, "we feel that it's some­thing that's going to be a big as­set," he said.

As for Brown, her stress level is down and her fam­i­ly mem­ber's health prob­lems have been re­solved. She is still pay­ing off near­ly $250,000 in loans and debts, she said, but she's hap­py to be work­ing a­gain. Thanks­giv­ing brought rea­son to be ex­tra grate­ful this year.

"It's an amaz­ing hol­i­day," Brown said. "I'm very thank­ful for the op­por­tu­ni­ty."

@pamlouwagie • 612-673-7102

about the writer

about the writer

Pam Louwagie

Reporter

Pam Louwagie is a regional reporter for the Minnesota Star Tribune. She previously covered courts and legal affairs and was on the newspaper's investigative team. She now writes frequently about a variety of topics in northeast Minnesota and around the state and region.

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