Walk into the just opened Meyvn (901 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-802-3848, mevyneats.com), and the first sensory experience is the hint of smoke that lingers in the air.
That campfire note is emanating from a small, glowing pile of white oak that lights up the left corner of "Liza," the gas-assisted oven that dominates the restaurant's wide-open kitchen.
Um, Liza? It's because the gigantic oven's exterior is covered in small, shiny tiles.
"We thought of a disco ball," said chef/co-owner Adam Eaton with a laugh. "And the next thought was Liza. Liza Minnelli."
Meyvn (it's pronounced may-ven, and it's Yiddish for connoisseur or expert, a highly applicable name) is the work of Eaton, Laurel Elm and Tim Niver, three of the outsized talents behind Saint Dinette in Lowertown.
Eaton and his crew bake their dense, chewy, deeply golden, hand-formed bagels on planks in Liza's intense heat, starting them on the left — close to that burning oak — and, as they bake, sliding them to the right.
There are six varieties: plain, poppy seed, sesame seed, brown sugar, garlic-onion and everything, and they go for $2 a pop.
The generous cream cheese schmears ($3) range from plain to versions packed with green onions or smoked whitefish. There's a hearty hummus, too. Proteins include a crisp-edged pastrami ($6), silky and sumptuous Nova lox ($9), corned beef ($5), bacon ($3) and an egg ($3).