It's a great time to be a tofu fan. Thanks to the rising interest in plant-based cooking, there are more options for this ancient food than ever before. Along with the familiar blocks of tofu, find preseasoned and pressed tofu, high-protein tofu, tofu noodles, tofu cream cheese, tofu ice cream, tofu "cheeses" and more in our local markets.

Tofu originated in China some 2,000 years ago, and has been a pantry staple throughout Asia for centuries. It's such a versatile, neutral ingredient that offers so many options, it's often hard to decide what to make. But first, match the kind of tofu to the dish.

All tofu begins with soy milk, made from ground soybeans, that are mixed with salt and an edible organic acid to forms curds. (The process is like making dairy cheese.) The curds are then drained and formed into tofu blocks with different textures determined by how the curds are pressed. There's silken (or soft), medium, medium-firm, extra-firm and super-firm tofu sold in vacuum-packed, shelf-stable cartons or packaged fresh in tubs in the refrigerated cases of supermarkets. Depending on the variety, tofu may be sliced, cubed, mashed, scooped, crumbled or grated.

MinnTofu, Minnesota's first tofu company, uses locally sourced soybeans to produce its tofu near the Twin Cities. It was founded by China native Yan Small, who began making tofu when she moved to St. Paul several decades ago. She couldn't understand why California was processing Minnesota soybeans and shipping them back as tofu.

The lack of fresh, light tofu — the kind she'd remembered her grandmother purchasing from a neighborhood artisan — in the area prompted her to start MinnTofu in 2018. Available in soft (silken), medium-firm and firm, it's remarkably clean-tasting with no bitter undertones. Find it in area co-ops and select grocery stores (get more information and store locations at minntofu.com.)

Tofu's neutral nature makes it a culinary chameleon that takes to a range of favors. Its real beauty is in its cross-cultural adaptability. Choose firm or extra firm for frying, roasting, sauteing, grilling or enjoying fresh (all tofu is precooked and ready to eat, but be sure to drain it first). Some recipes call for marinating the tofu, but it absorbs so little of that flavor that it's better to rely on a bold sauce or glaze.

Silken or soft tofu is especially good when blended into smoothies, mashed as a substitute for ricotta cheese in lasagna, or used in lieu of cream cheese or mascarpone in pies and puddings. It can also add body to salad dressings and sauces, thicken soups and replace eggs in scrambles with vegetables and herbs.

Too often, tofu is considered a substitute for meat, but when local and fresh, tofu stands on its own.

In the heat of summer, pressed, cubed tofu makes a light refreshing entree salad of summer vegetables laced with a punchy soy-ginger vinaigrette or tossed into a cold pasta salad spiked with hot peppers, lime and chiles. Try cubed tofu in a caprese salad of sun-kissed cherry tomatoes, plenty of basil and crispy croutons; whip it into a dip for veggies and chips; grill it for tacos — there's a whole lot more tofu can do.

Tofu Salad with Spicy-Sweet Ginger Vinaigrette

Serves 4.

Note: A lively combo of plucky vinaigrette and spicy greens, this is one of those "it's just too hot to cook" recipes to have up your sleeve. Also try to substitute pre-seasoned, pressed tofu for the fresh tofu; find it in the refrigerated cases in grocery stores. From Beth Dooley.

For the Spicy-Sweet Ginger Vinaigrette:

• 2 tbsp. soy sauce

• 1 tbsp. rice vinegar

• 1 tbsp. dark sesame oil

• 2 tsp. freshly shredded ginger root

• 1 small clove garlic, minced

• Generous pinch red pepper flakes

• 2 tsp. honey

For the tofu salad:

• 1 (14-oz.) block firm or extra-firm tofu (see Note)

• Several handfuls dark greens

• 1/4 c. chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

• 1/4 c. chopped basil, plus more for garnish

• Handful of cherry tomatoes, sliced

• 1 c. corn kernels

• 1 small jalapeño or shishito pepper, seeded and chopped

Directions

To prepare the dressing: Whisk together all of the ingredients until the honey has dissolved.

To prepare the tofu: Line a rimmed baking sheet with a clean kitchen towel or several layers of paper towels. Drain the liquid from the tofu package and then place the block of tofu onto the kitchen towel. Cover with another layer of towels. Set a second baking sheet over the towels and weight down with a heavy pot or big can of tomatoes. Drain the tofu for about 20 minutes.

Cut the tofu into rectangles about slabs 1/2 inch thick, 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. Arrange the greens, herbs, tomatoes, corn and chopped peppers on a platter or individual serving plate. Top with tofu pieces and drizzle with the dressing and serve cold, garnishing with additional basil and cilantro.

Crispy Sheet Pan Tofu with Green Beans

Serves 4.

The cornstarch coating makes a light, firm crisp on the tofu that's roasted and then seasoned with plenty of fresh herbs. The green beans and onions roast alongside to tofu into an easy, no-cleanup, sheet-pan dinner. Vary the vegetables as they're in season, subbing out the green beans for broccoli and cauliflower as they come to market. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 (14-oz.) pkg. extra-firm tofu

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 1 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 1 to 2 tbsp. cornstarch

• 1 small onion, cut into 1/4-in. slices

• 12 oz. green beans, trimmed and cut in half

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• Coarse salt

• 1/4 c. finely chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish

• 1/4 c. finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish

• 1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

• 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice, for serving

Directions

Line a rimmed baking sheet with a clean kitchen towel or several layers of paper towels. Drain the liquid from the tofu package and then place the block of tofu onto the kitchen towel. Cover with another layer of towels. Set a second baking sheet over the towels and weigh it down with a heavy pot or big can of tomatoes. Drain the tofu for about 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

Cut the tofu into 1-inch cubes and season both sides with pepper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the vegetable oil and cornstarch. Add the tofu and gently toss until evenly coated. Place on one side of the prepared sheet pan.

In a large bowl, toss the onion slices and beans with the oil and sprinkle with salt. Scatter on the other half of the baking sheet.

Bake until the tofu is crisp and golden brown and the vegetables are soft and beginning to caramelize, about 20 minutes. Halfway through, use a spatula to flip the tofu and toss the vegetables, making sure to keep them separate. Remove the tofu and vegetables from the oven.

Toss the herbs together in a medium bowl and transfer the tofu the bowl. Turn and press the tofu to thoroughly coat with the herbs. Season with more salt and pepper.

To serve, arrange the tofu and the vegetables on a platter and sprinkle with the lemon juice and the zest and garnish with the herbs.

Lemony Cheesecake

Serves 10 to 12.

Light and creamy, this cheesecake is just the thing when you want something cool, creamy and satisfying, but not too heavy. Make it a day or two ahead so it fully sets and the flavors have time to meld together. From Beth Dooley.

For the crust:

• Oil for greasing the pan

• 2 c. crushed ginger snaps or graham crackers

• 1/4 c. maple syrup

• 2 tbsp. hazelnut or sunflower oil

For the filling:

• 1 lb. soft or silken tofu, drained

• 1/3 c. sugar

• Generous pinch salt

• 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• 1 tsp. fresh lemon zest

Directions

To prepare the crust: Generously oil a 9-inch pie plate or muffin tin. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, pulse together the crackers, syrup and oil. Turn into the pie plate or muffin tin and press down the mixture to form a crust. Bake until firm, about 7 to 10 minutes Remove and cool.

To prepare the filling: In a food processor, blend together the tofu, sugar, salt, lemon juice and lemon zest until smooth and fluffy. Pour the mixture into the crust.

Bake until the top is slightly browned and no longer jiggles, about 20 minutes for the muffin-sized tarts and about 30 to 35 minutes for the cheesecake. Cool then refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, about 2 hours.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.