It's easy to think of Patagonia as a "new" wine region. But Humberto Canale founded his namesake winery there in 1909, and the 2013 H. Canale "Black River" Malbec ($11) is a stunner: firm, flavorful and expressive. The dark red fruit lingers on the long finish, and the bracing minerality might be the result of the consistent evening winds from Antarctica that this southern Argentina region receives. (Grapes like cool nights.) This would cozy up to most any beef or lamb preparation.

Available at Fall Liquors, Vinifera, East Lake, Dolce Vita, Liquor Village, Richfield munis and others.

BILL WARD