When I asked James Oseland, editor of Saveur and the magazine's recently released "The New Comfort Food" cookbook, if the world really needed another Snickerdoodles formula -- and that's coming from a lifelong fan of the tender, cinnamon-ey cookie -- he laughed. "Just try the recipe," he said. "You'll see."

You know what? He was right. But don't take our word for it. Bake them yourself.

SNICKERDOODLES

Makes 48 cookies.

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. "These sweet, spicy cookies are a classic example of how beautifully the flavor of cinnamon blooms in butter," writes editor James Oseland in "The New Comfort Food" (Chronicle, $35).

3 c. flour

2 tsp. cream of tartar

1 tsp. baking soda

1/4 tsp. kosher salt

1 3/4 c. sugar, divided

1 c. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

5 tsp. ground cinnamon, divided

1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

2 eggs

Directions

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and salt and reserve. In a bowl of an electric mixer on medium speed, beat 1 1/2 cups sugar and butter together until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add 2 teaspoons cinnamon and vanilla extract and beat for 1 minute more. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Reduce speed to low and add reserved dry ingredients, mixing until just combined. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate dough for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and line baking sheets with parchment paper. In a small bowl, combine remaining 1/4 cup sugar and 3 teaspoons cinnamon. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll dough into 1-tablespoon balls. Roll each ball in sugar-cinnamon mixture to coat. Arrange dough balls 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool for 2 minutes and transfer cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.