On the hunt for Thanksgiving turkeys

Thanksgiving turkey, that bronze hero of the holiday table, is often favored for its good looks while the side dishes provide flavor.

Not all are birds of the same feather, however. Heritage? Free-range? Organic? Conventional? Frozen or fresh?

Depending on which you choose, the cooking method varies a bit.

Conventional birds: These are often "pre-basted" or "self-basting," which means that the turkey has been injected with a solution that may contain stock, water, seasonings, salt and other flavors, sometimes accounting for as much as 3 percent of the bird's net weight. If you're watching your sodium intake, be aware of this. Some diners find the meat too soft.

Free-range and organic: Generally, these have larger thighs and smaller breasts than the conventional turkeys. They are slightly leaner and so cook a bit faster and their flavor is more distinctly "turkeyish." Use a little extra fat (butter or olive oil) before roasting and baste them every 20 minutes or so.

Heritage breeds: Smaller, leaner, with more dark meat and less breast meat, these are closest to wild turkeys with complex, dark flavor and firm texture. Slather them with butter or oil and baste frequently. Bourbon Red, Spanish Black and Royal Palm are among the breeds raised by local farmers. The key is to use plenty of butter and cook them breast side down so that the juices flow into the breast to help keep it moist. These generally cost more per pound.

Here are a few tips, culled from turkey farmers who know their birds:

• When purchasing a whole turkey, estimate about 1 pound of turkey per serving (that takes into account shrinkage, bones, etc.).

• Fresh turkeys require about 12 minutes a pound at 350 degrees. Frozen turkeys (once thawed) need a little longer, about 15 to 20 minutes per pound. The meat is cooked and safe to eat at 160 degrees (test using a meat thermometer inserted in the thigh, making sure it doesn't touch the bone).

• To get that deep golden skin, start the turkey in a hot (500-degree) oven for about 30 minutes then reduce the heat to 350 degrees.

• Cook the stuffing on the side. Cooking it in the bird causes havoc in the cooking time (slowing it down and making it easy to overcook the meat). It can also result in temperature problems (and a risk of salmonella if the stuffing isn't cooked to the right temperature). Better to stuff the cavity with onions, apples and herbs. Leaving the cavity open dries out the meat.

• If serving a large group, it's better to buy one or two smaller turkeys than to try and cook an enormous bird.

Beth Dooley is a Minneapolis writer and cooking teacher.