If any city suffers from image problems, it's Cincinnati.

The past decades have tainted the "Queen City" with racial unrest (following the 2001 police shooting of an unarmed black man) and a reputation for intolerance (after the unsuccessful prosecution of the Contemporary Arts Center and director Dennis Barrie on charges of pandering obscenity for a 1990 Robert Mapplethorpe exhibit). But the past few years have seen a cultural revival in Cincinnati, which sits regally at the southwestern end of Ohio on the Ohio River across from Kentucky. A visitor will find world-class museums, a vibrant nightlife and dining scene, and a rich look at the state's history.

Cincinnati boasts a mild climate, leisurely Southern pace, strong German heritage, hilly geography and a lovely river location.

The sights

Even if you've never been to Cincinnati, Fountain Square may look familiar -- and send the theme to "WKRP in Cincinnati" looping through your head. But there's nothing dated about the heart of the city. The area around the lovely 1871 fountain was renovated in 2005 into a cultural hub surrounded by shops and restaurants that host concerts, markets, festivals and other public events.

From Fountain Square, several other downtown destinations are within walking distance. Must-sees include two of Ohio's newest museums: the stunning Lois & Richard Rosenthal Center for Contemporary Art (1-513-345-8400; www.contemporaryarts center.org) designed by renowned London-based deconstructivist architect Zaha Hadid, and the sober National Underground Railroad Freedom Center (1-877-648-4838; www.freedomcenter.org/). Next, head to the University of Cincinnati, just north of downtown, for a look at several buildings by leading world architects on the forward-thinking campus, including Frank Gehry's Vontz Center for Molecular Studies and the Aronoff Center for Design and Art designed by Peter Eisenman.

The eats

Ever heard of goetta? Probably not, unless you're of German extraction with roots in the southern Ohio/northern Kentucky area. A mixture of ground beef and oats, this poverty dish once made to stretch meat servings is little known outside the Cincinnati area. But despite its peasant origins, goetta has become downright chic. Mokka (1-859-581-3700), a sleek breakfast-lunch joint across the river in Newport, Ky, serves its goetta in wisp-thin slices, with a crisp, sausage-like consistency and taste. Even more tempting was the French toast topped with crème brûlée, cornflakes and bananas. Divinely decadent.

Also quite decadent is another Cincinnati mainstay: Graeter's ice cream. It seems there's a parlor on every other street corner. In business since 1870, Graeter's is known for its rich, creamy ice cream, made two gallons at a time in its "French Pot Process." Try the signature Black Raspberry Chip.

And no trip to Cincinnati would be complete without a German meal. You'll find several Deutsch establishments, but none quite like the Hofbrauhaus Newport (1-859-491-7200; www.hofbrauhaus newport.com). Opened in 2003, this 750-seat restaurant is styled like a massive Munich beer hall with a lovely biergarten.

Featured at numerous chains, Cincinnati chili is not too spicy, usually beanless and served over spaghetti or as sauce on small "Coney" hot dogs, topped with a mountain of shredded Cheddar. Nothing special, but it satisfies the late-night munchies.

After dark

Much of the action in the Cincinnati area is also in Newport (where, by the way, smoking is still allowed in bars). Once something of a den of iniquity where Ohioans went for cheap liquor and all kinds of good times, the city has been scrubbed clean.

Just a few blocks from the Hofbrauhaus stands Southgate House (1-859-431-2201; www.southgatehouse.com/), the concert club for indie, alternative and alt-rock shows. Even more interesting than the schedule, though, is the locale: Southgate House is in a restored 1814 mansion, built by British prisoners of the War of 1812.

Back in Ohio, the fun is a little grittier in Northside, north of downtown near the University of Cincinnati, where you'll find the Comet (1-513-541-8900; www.cometbar.com), known for its big beer list and even bigger San Francisco-style burritos. For a little more upscale night out -- with some of the best scenic river views in town -- head up to Mount Adams. Topped by the imposing Monastery, this 200-year-old neighborhood is home to some of the city's most interesting bars and restaurants. As you stroll the charming winding streets twinkling with lights and vintage street lamps, you'll find Thai, Italian and American foods and bars. One of the most popular is the Mt. Adams Bar and Grill (1-513-621-3666; www. mtadamsbarandgrill.com), a sleek wood eatery with American cuisine and an impressive drink selection.