Sicilian Shepherd's Tomato Pasta with Fresh Ricotta

Serves 6 to 8 as a first course and 4 to 6 as a main dish.

• Top third of 3 large celery ribs, with leaves

• 1 medium carrot

• 10 large fresh sage leaves

• 1 tightly packed teaspoon Italian parsley

• 2 tbsp. robust extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/8 -in.-thick slice salami (sopressatta, Genoa or other), coarsely chopped

• 2 medium onions, cut into 1/2 in. dice

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3 large garlic cloves, minced

• Generous pinch to 1/4 tsp. hot red pepper flakes

• 3/4 c. dry red wine

• 1 tbsp. tomato paste

• 1 (28-oz.) can whole tomatoes, plus 1 (14-oz.) can, both thoroughly drained

• 1 lb. penne rigate or bucatini pasta

• 6 quarts salted, boiling water

• 1 lb. creamy whole-milk ricotta cheese (sheep's milk, if possible)

Directions

Mince together the celery and carrot, then add sage and parsley, coarsely chopping the mixture. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium high. Add salami and cook to release a little of its fat, stir in the minced herb blend, onions, a little salt and a generous amount of black pepper. Turn heat to medium and sauté to golden brown.

With heat still at medium, stir in garlic and hot pepper (to taste), cooking a few moments. Add wine and slowly simmer down to practically nothing, scraping up brown bits at the bottom of the pan. Stir in tomato paste and cook 1 minute. Add tomatoes and their liquid, crushing them as they go into the pan. Cook, uncovered, at a lively bubble (turning heat up if necessary), stirring and scraping down sides of the pan with a spatula. Cook 10 minutes or until thick. Taste for seasoning, cover and remove from heat.

Time pasta to be ready when the sauce is done. Cook pasta in fiercely boiling water, stirring often until slightly underdone. Drain in a colander. Toss the pasta and sauce together over medium heat, 2 to 3 minutes, tasting for hot pepper and salt.

Spread about a third of the pasta in a heated serving bowl, daub with a third of the ricotta. Layer in more pasta, then ricotta, the pasta, and finish with a few spoonfuls of ricotta. Serve hot.