Can't wait for fresh, local asparagus? Try these tricks for best taste

I just can't wait any longer for our local, freshly picked asparagus to appear in the farmers market stalls. So those bright green stalks from California will just have to do. No doubt the airplane ride to get here, and the time in storage, have taken a toll. But there are a few tricks a cook can use to improve the flavor of this fragile vegetable that loses moisture as soon as it's harvested.

First, be choosy when buying asparagus. Inspect the stem end first and avoid any that are wrinkled, split or appear dried out. The tips should be tight and clean. You don't want those that are floppy or weepy-looking. The stalks should be roughly the same size so they'll cook in about the same amount of time.

The debate continues to rage over the pros and cons of thick versus skinny spears. Unless you're working with local asparagus, choose the fatter spears because they tend to be juicer and less likely to dry out. As soon as you get them home, trim off the bottom of the stems and store them, cut side down, in a cup or bowl filled with about an inch of water in the refrigerator. Like flowers, they'll stay fresher this way. Alternately, wrap them in a damp paper towel and keep them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Eat them as soon as you can.

To prepare asparagus, bend the stalks at the base to find the point at which they naturally snap and then discard the woody end. Peel the bottom inch of the stalk with a sharp knife or potato peeler to remove any tough covering.

Unlike just picked and super fresh, stalks from California may need a little more lovin'. My favorite technique is oven-roasting. It concentrates the asparagus' sweet, herbal flavors, deepens the color and crisps the tips a bit. Roasting, grilling and broiling asparagus tames that "grassy" taste. Cooked this way, the asparagus makes a fine addition to an antipasti platter with Parmesan cheese, smoked meats, olives and anchovies. Served with a small dish of garlic aioli for dipping, they also make a fine party snack.

To perk up the flavors as the spears come out of the oven, drizzle them with a little fresh lemon juice right away. Leftovers work nicely in an omelet or quiche, or tossed with pasta or brown rice. They're great folded into a grilled cheese sandwich or arranged on a pizza.

Pretty soon, we'll be stalking our very own stalks.

Note: Prosciutto has a special affinity for asparagus, especially when roasted on top of the spears to turn salty and crisp. This makes a fine first course or a nice side dish to grilled or roast chicken. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 lb. fat asparagus, stems trimmed

• 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• Pinch of coarse salt

• Pinch of freshly ground pepper

• 1/4 c. shredded Parmesan cheese

• 1/2 lemon

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

To prepare the stalks, bend at the base to where they naturally snap and discard the woody end. Peel the bottom ½ inch of each.

Sprinkle with the Parmesan and return to the oven until the cheese melts, about 2 to 3 more minutes. Remove and drizzle with the lemon juice and serve warm.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories94Fat6 gSodium330 mg

Carbohydrates3 gSaturated fat2 gTotal sugars1 g

Protein7 gCholesterol10 mgDietary fiber1 g

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.