I've been remiss about covering beer and spirits, but that's about to change. Which was part of the reason for finally catching up with Omar Ansari, whose Surly Brewing Company has developed a cult-like following regionally and even nationally.

Ansari, a 1992 Macalester graduate who could pass for a 2002 grad, was pouring four of his Brooklyn Center-brewed offerings at the Golden Valley Byerly's. His manner is as friendly and low-key as his beers are hearty and high-octane.

The Bender is as classic a porter brown ale [My mistake in the first rendition: BW] as you're likely to find, thick and focused and long. Perhaps because I'm not a coffee drinker, I wasn't quite as fond of the Coffee Bender. The Surly Furious nails the hops (sometimes overdone in rival IPAs) and coats the palate with thick, smooth flavors and texture.

I loves me some Belgian farmhouse ales, and, as with the Furious and Bender, Surly's Cynic is right in the zone for the genre. (Wine geeks would say it is varietally correct, so I'll say that, too.) It's seriously yeasty and seriously yummy.

Ansari said his seasonal Baltic Porter should hit the local shelves -- but not for long, if history is any indicator -- later this month.

As craft beers get better and better, anyone who likes wine should be checking them out -- especially with Surly, Summit, Lift Bridge and others brewing up a local storm.