Matzo ball soup at the Gnome
Anyone who follows the work of Brian Ingram knows that the chef and restaurateur clearly thrives on pumping out new ideas. So it makes sense that his Cathedral Hill brewpub, open since August 2020, was due for a menu refresh.
A few old favorites remain, including the gargantuan pretzel, but new dishes from chef Gavin Kashmark lean deep into Minnesota comfort foods. An appetizer twist on hot dish has latkes standing in for the tots, luxuriantly creamy beef stroganoff is served on just-made egg noodles, and an outstanding matzo ball soup ($6) defies all expectations of bar food.
The rich stock is made in house with a burnished color from roasted chicken. Sprigs of fresh dill add a welcome verdant flavor and a promise of spring. The matzo balls are ethereal, made from stiff egg whites whipped to peaks that are folded into the batter. The result has all the appeal of a just-fluffed down comforter on a gray day. (Joy Summers)
498 Selby Av., St. Paul, 651-219-4233, thegnomepub.com. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
Dragon fruit lemonade sorbet from Sweet Science Ice Cream
Leave it to Minnesotans to go seeking ice cream in February, but that's what a surprise 40-degree day will do to us hardy stock. I made my way down to Sweet Science's Edina scoop shop to try one of their seasonal flavors, which rotate monthly. There are four options this month, and I chose the pinkest of them all.
"We have been wanting to make a pink lemonade flavor forever and had planned to use rhubarb, but when I found out about the availability of organic red dragon fruit, it shocked me," said owner Ashlee Olds. "That color!"
Dragon fruit has a gentle flavor — something vaguely floral and also pear-like. Lemon juice brings a little tartness, just enough for a midwinter wakeup call. The Barbie-pink fruit is in season all year in Vietnam, "but we thought February was the perfect time to bring in some vibrancy," Olds said.
The other flavors this month are Blood Orange Cream, Graham Caramel Fudge and Raspberry Fudge Swirl. Try them at the scoop shop, or in pints at Golden Fig Fine Foods on St. Paul's Grand Avenue. (Sharyn Jackson)
3919 Market St., Edina, 612-217-0070, sweetscienceicecream.com. Open 4-9 p.m. Tue.-Fri., noon-9 p.m. Sat., 1-8 p.m. Sun.
Swedish meatballs at Chip's Clubhouse
From the exterior, Chip's Clubhouse is an enigma. The restaurant is part of a relatively new strip mall on Snelling Avenue. Its windows are perpetually papered over, blocking out eyes and most light. It's almost impossible to know what you're walking into, unless you know the players involved.
The restaurant is the second in the strip mall owned by Tara Coleman, the chef who has blessed the Saintly City with one of its best breakfast spots, Hot Hands Pie & Biscuits. She partnered with longtime friend and former co-worker Gina Mangiameli and local hospitality and cocktail expert Tim Leary.
Once inside, a soft golden light washes over everything. It's a portal to the sort of supper club that could be anywhere down a long country road: warm wood on the bar, dark tabletops and a welcoming staff.
The menu is filled with hearty snacks and winter-ready food, including an appetizer of Swedish meatballs ($12). It's a dish that conjures memories of my log home Up North and my mom rolling them through her 80-year-old Griswold cast iron pan. The crusty exterior belies the tender interior, all enhanced by the rich gravy and a little drizzle of sour cream. The gentle spices are ever-so warming, which is all we need on these waning winter nights. (J.S.)
272 S. Snelling Av., St. Paul, 651-330-1617, chipsclubhousemn.com, Open 5-9 p.m. Wed.-Sat., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. brunch and 5-8 p.m. dinner Sun.
Prosciutto and butter sandwich at Mother Dough Bakery
Perhaps the most prized possession that chef David Fhima brought from Casablanca, Morocco, to the Twin Cities is his sharp cookery. Also: his family's 130-year-old dough starter.
It's the genesis of many sandwiches that Fhima and his son, Eli, serve at the newly opened Mother Dough Bakery, which the duo operates from their marquee restaurant, Fhima's, in downtown Minneapolis.
I don't know what century-old starter dough should taste like, but my most recent experience trying Fhima's bread had me smitten. I suspect it's the way it straddles crisp and chewy. Or how the interior is both airy and moist.
It's also the quality meats and inclusions that Fhima incorporates into the sandwich ($17.50), served at both Bistro by David Fhima at the Target Center (where I tried it), and at Mother Dough. Inside the sandwich is Italian prosciutto, from a local purveyor, and butter, which is housemade in the style of a preserved Moroccan variety called smen, akin to a cultured cheese. The sandwich is pressed so the bread and butter soften, while the prosciutto's fat renders just enough to lend that rich, salty, head-spinning hit that makes this game-night snack so immensely gratifying. (Jon Cheng)
Bistro by David Fhima, located inside Target Center. Mother Dough, 225 S. 6th St., Mpls., fhimasmpls.com. Open 7 a.m.- 2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; happy hour starts Feb. 16 and will run 2-6 p.m. Wed.-Fri.
Poutine from Protagonist Kitchen & Bar
As a south-of-the-river family, we're always on the lookout for good suburban restaurants. This new Richfield eatery had been getting good buzz — especially its Big Mac-esque smash burger ($15), which my teenage son destroyed in about 30 seconds — and we were eager to give it a try.
The poutine ($14) was also getting good buzz. I have to admit, the idea of poutine never appealed to me. Do we really need gravy on French fries? But Protagonist's version piqued my interest, and now I'm a convert.
A bed of house-cut fries is topped with a very flavorful beef demi-glace (which sounds much classier than gravy), cheddar cheese sauce and a brisket that was melt-in-your-mouth tender. It was really, really good, and not nearly as heavy as its ingredient list would indicate. That said, it is what we call in our house a "sometimes" food.
For something a little less meaty, try the ultra cheesy eggplant melt ($14). The eggplant was perfectly prepared (no one likes mushy eggplant) and the snappy arugula pesto and pickled red onions gave it a nice kick.
Located in the former Houlihan's, Protagonist can be a little tricky to find from the parking ramp on your first visit. Service was lightning-quick, but not rushed, on a night when we had places to be. We'll definitely be back — probably for the poutine. (Nicole Hvidsten)
6601 Lyndale Av. S., Richfield, 612-259-8135, protagonistkitchenandbar.com. Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tue.-Sun.; kitchen closes at 9:30 p.m.
