Ten years ago, there was no such thing as a Spanish white wine section at local retail outlets. More like a slot, maybe two or three.
"You would see the occasional albariño or viura, and that was it," said Chuck Kanski.
What a difference a decade makes. Now Kanski's store, Solo Vino in St. Paul, has more than a half-dozen brands of txakolina, a once-obscure light (in body and alcohol), slightly fizzy white from Basque country. And several godellos and verdejos, plus some xarel-lo, macabeo and protocolo. And a malvar that he particularly loves.
Zestos Old Vines Malvar ($11) is "the quintessential wine for summer," Kanski said. "It pairs extremely well with guacamole and with potato salad and with pickled green beans or carrots or cukes, the cold fare that one would expect to find at picnic table."
That's a trait shared by almost all the Spanish whites that now fill shelves, not slots, at many stores: They're crisp and refreshing, bracing but smooth, and considerably more complex than the tasty vinho verdes from Spain's Iberian neighbor, Portugal.
That makes them fantastic choices for summer sipping, but I also enjoyed the jolt of energy and "lift" they provided throughout our recent near-endless winter.
The freshness and underlying acidity and minerality make them versatile at the dinner table, too. Besides grows-together/goes-together choices such as gazpacho and paella, these wines also cozy right up to all manner of fish and fowl and most pork dishes.
Despite the similar traits, these varietals are distinctive, starting with verdejo from the Rueda region. "When it's very cold, you get more citrus," Kanski said. "Then you get more white fruits when the temperature is in the 40s. And when it's at the proper temperature in the low 50s, there's more apricot and peaches.