Amid an exceptionally fraught moment for the state’s restaurant industry, the James Beard Foundation announced its awards semifinalists, naming 10 Minnesota chefs and restaurants to its semifinalist list of culinary honors.
The news arrives as Minnesota restaurants — an industry powered and supported by immigrant workers, chefs, purveyors and diners — are navigating intense challenges and fears related to federal immigration enforcement, compounded by extreme cold and a statewide strike planned for Jan. 23.
For some restaurateurs, the Beard Awards news offered a rare ray of light.
“The recognition is helpful and draws some attention to independent businesses and the many wonderful people that it takes to run a restaurant, including vulnerable people who make those restaurants,” said Alex Roberts, who got a nod as Outstanding Chef for Restaurant Alma.
“Fear and dining are a bad combination. I’m hoping this can put a little sunshine on things.”
For independent operators, the attention matters. “For small local restaurants like us, it’s a very tough time and the national recognition [means a lot],” said Shigeyuki Furukawa, chef/owner of Kado No Mise, who was named a semifinalist for Best Chef: Midwest.
Widely viewed as the industry’s highest honors, the James Beard Awards recognize and celebrate excellence in the hospitality industry and food media. The restaurant awards fall into 10 national and 12 regional categories. This year, the Twin Cities’ culinary community was recognized in both regional and national categories.
National awards
Outstanding Restaurateur: Mike Brown, Bob Gerken and James Winberg, Travail Collective (Travail Kitchen & Amusements, ie by Travail and Dream Creamery), Robbinsdale: The innovative chef collective began with a small tasting-menu-only restaurant in downtown Robbinsdale and has grown into a formidable presence across the Twin Cities. Travail began by breaking the rules, with its chef/founders coming into the front of the house to serve guests. Today, they continue to defy restaurant expectations with an aggressive expansion of restaurants in the past year. This is their first time being recognized in this category, though they’ve been five-time semifinalists for Best Chef: Midwest.