For many Minnesotans, restaurants are a bright spot — places of routine, connection and care amid a broader uncertainty. That sense of normalcy is now under strain as the effects of the federal ICE surge ripple through businesses statewide, hitting the restaurant industry especially hard.
As restaurants step up for the community by running food drives, hosting fundraisers and donating profits, behind the scenes many are struggling to stay afloat. The atmosphere feels eerily similar to the early days of the pandemic: unpredictable, chaotic and financially perilous.
Several recent dining attempts have revealed a growing number of temporarily closed restaurants. Mercados and Hmong marketplaces are nearly empty; most of the Somali-owned shops in Karmel Mall are dark; close to 80% of immigrant-owned businesses along key corridors in Minneapolis and St. Paul have temporarily closed in the past week.
Make no mistake: this is an extinction-level event. Restaurant profit margins are razor thin even in the best of times, and January is traditionally one of the slowest months. Add harsh winter weather, widespread economic anxiety that’s keeping diners at home, and fear among both workers and the dining public around ICE activity, and the result is a perfect storm — one that threatens the viability of restaurants across the state.
Many chefs and restaurant owners are reluctant to speak publicly, wanting to stay under the radar for fear of retaliation. Business has dropped sharply for those that are open, with waves of reservation cancellations compounding the strain.
This situation is not isolated to the Twin Cities or the suburbs. The impact of ICE on restaurants is being felt statewide. In Willmar, Minn., federal agents detained three workers from a family-owned Mexican restaurant hours after agents ate there — a chilling example of how suddenly livelihoods can be upended.
If the public doesn’t support restaurants now — and continue to do so in the months ahead — we risk losing our rich dining landscape, shaped over generations by immigrant communities and Indigenous foodways.
Many readers have asked how they can help restaurants and their workers; here are some concrete ways to do it: