It’s good to leave burger expectations at the door.
Think of a burger as a blank canvas, adorned with cheese and maybe bacon for a classic preparation. But the standouts that chefs around the metro area are creating at the moment often lean into their creative side.
That means the ooze of American cheese might mingle with the funk of kimchi, crispy beef skirts might catch a drip of molten mozzarella or nostalgia might become the side we didn’t know we needed.
While the prices are far from our diner and drive-thru days of burger nostalgia — and only some come with fries — there’s plenty to enjoy in our current fancy burger era.
Smash burger at Animales Barbeque Co.
When first we met, this was an outside-only burger. The customized blend from chef-owner Jon Wipfli was served from a food trailer at his previous location outside of a brewery. But now we can enjoy this beauty all year round inside the newly opened restaurant and music venue.
The rich combination of premium wagyu beef ($19.20) and butter yields maximum flavor. Topped with American cheese, Dijonnaise and perfectly tart-crisp pickle slices, it’s a master class in exceptional ingredients. Each one has a place and purpose, including the toasty milk bun that’s the ideal balance of soft and sturdy. The cost might be steep, but as a no-tip restaurant, it’s the price you really pay. (J.S.)
241 Freemont Av., Mpls., animalesbbq.com
Dirty French Burger at Bellecour
Almost immediately after Gavin Kaysen announced he was reviving his beloved French restaurant Bellcour, the clamoring for pomme frites began. And for good reason; the skinny fries, deftly seasoned with leek, parsley and rosemary, are indeed worth the hype. But let’s not forget about the Dirty French Burger ($19). A cult classic at the original Bellecour, two skinny patties are dressed up with raclette cheese, red wine-onion aioli, and a burst of rich Perigourdine sauce. As one colleague aptly said: “Holy. Yum.” If you feel a little sheepish ordering a burger when there are so many other things to try, take a page from the Taste team and order one for the table to share. (N.H.)