The 5 best things our food writers ate this week

I texted two separate friends when I first heard the news that Café & Bar Lurcat would be ending its 23-year-run: “Your wedding venue is closing,” followed by all the emojis.

Lurcat has always been a place to mark moments. As I dined there last Saturday, after a memorial for a beloved family member, I thought through all the other times I’d marked those big life moments around that grand bar: birthdays, anniversaries, celebrating winning an award, and yes, multiple weddings. One of those friends who celebrated her nuptials in the cobblestone alley in the back told me she plans to return for one more meal here — in her wedding gown.

So many of Lurcat’s greatest hits are still front-and-center on the menu, and I used this opportunity to revisit some of my favorites. The steak frites ($49) is a stunner, all 10 ounces of tender Eden Valley wagyu. But the real star of that dish will always be the kettle overflowing with golden, thick-cut fries (with béarnaise for dipping) — among the best fries in the Twin Cities, in my personal rankings. The apple, Manchego and chive salad ($15), a crunchy-salty-sweet haystack on a plate, remains one of the most iconic meal-starters anywhere. It’s so simple, I should be able to replicate it at home, but I’ve never come close. Even the bread service ($12) and a couple of glasses of pink bubbly for clinking underscore how the Lurcat channels the luxurious heyday of white tablecloth dining.

While reservations have been seemingly snatched up through the closing date of Sept. 5, here’s some good news. I went on OpenTable a little after 2 p.m. Saturday and scored a prime dinner reservation for that night. I was even able to request the table I wanted, in the Palm Beach-chic bar area rather than the more formal dining room. And by a little after 8, several other tables around us were open, along with many walk-in seats available at the bar. So it’s still possible that you, too, can mark one more moment at Lurcat. (Sharyn Jackson)

1624 Harmon Place, Mpls., lurcatminneapolis.com

I love strip mall surprises, and this restaurant in the heart of Burnsville’s retail corridor is one of them. The bright and welcoming Tsunami opened in early 2024 with an expansive menu that hits all the favorites: sushi, ramen, salads, noodles, rice, bowls and more.

During a warm stretch of summer, the poke bowl hit the spot. We opted for the Rainbow ($17.95), which was chock-full of tuna (yellowfin and white) and salmon, rice, edamame, avocado, cucumber and seaweed salad, with a garnish of crunchy roe, spicy mayo and green onion for good measure. Each cool bite was bursting with flavor and texture; the fish was meltingly tender, the vegetables crunchy. It was more than enough for a midday meal, so half went home for the next day’s lunch. It also came with miso soup, which even on a steamy afternoon is a welcome sight.

1601 County Road 42 W., Burnsville, https://www.tsunamimn.com/

Standing in line, anxiety crept into the edges of an otherwise idyllic morning. The line inside Crack of Dawn Bakehouse was inching forward and that tray of cinnamon rolls was dwindling with every person ahead of me.

Outside, the sun was casting shadows on the neighbors catching up with each other on the news of the day. From the sunbeams to a yellow dog, I tried to channel the optimism that downtown Faribault projects on a weekend morning.

The thing is, a great cinnamon roll is worth lining up for, and these are just that — pillowy, soft white bread dough with oozing butter and cinnamon that perfumes the bakery ($3.75). The frosting is just sweet enough to make the whole thing feel like a nostalgic treat — the kind Grandma would have made on a weekend visit.

Lucky for me, the optimism was rightly placed, and I reached the counter that morning before the supply diminished. Next visit, I’ll make sure to order a couple extra for later. (Joy Summers)

Sometimes referred to as “fried crispy noodles” or “bird’s nest” for its shape, I’ve enjoyed this alternative form of lo mein over the years, both pretty in presentation and fun to eat.

When the dish arrives at your table, the pan-fried noodles begin to soften from the heat of the gravy-laden stir-fry ladled on top. Next, grab your eating utensil of choice and mix all the ingredients together like a salad to further soften the noodles, transforming the dish into something akin to lo mein, albeit a crispier and lighter version.

The White Bear Township restaurant makes a solid account of this dish. The stir-fry is loaded with veggies, such as fresh-cut carrots, broccoli and celery that’s cooked to a nice al dente. Baby corn and bamboo shoots add crunch and more flavor. Mushrooms bring umami and depth to the mild gravy.

At Orchid, you can choose a protein of pork, chicken, beef or shrimp ($12-$15). My family has traditionally loved this dish with shrimp, the spendiest option on the menu. But biting into this vegetable-laden stir-fry with that light gravy only reinforced why seafood was a natural complement. (Nancy Ngo)

1190 County Road J, White Bear Township, orchid-restaurant.com

Potluck food hall was hosting “The Minnesota Fare,” in which six vendors were serving close to two dozen fair-inspired food and drink items, from Spam mac and cheese, grilled cheese and dill pizza to cheesecake on a stick to deep-fried Oreos. There was also a deep-fried Philly cheesesteak burrito at Tio’s Tacos from chef Adam Randall (who also recently took over the kitchen at Golden Thyme in St. Paul) that drew crowds.

As my colleague best described it, it’s basically a Philly chimichanga. Ingredients from Philadelphia’s most famous dish — thinly shaved beef, sautéed bell peppers and onions — get folded into a burrito. The cheesesteak here is nicely seasoned, and a house cheese sauce reminiscent of a creamy, whipped version of Cheez Whiz was a welcome choice, as was the crisp, deep-fried tortilla.

It will set you back $20, but if it’s any consolation, like the State Fair, it’s go big or go home. One order is gigantic, with the steak alone weighing in at 7 ounces, according to the vendor description, and for our appetites it was enough to feed two to three. Like the other “Minnesota Fare” specials at Rosedale, the cheesesteak burrito is available through Aug. 10, but let’s hope it makes a repeat appearance in the near future. (N.N.)