Lowertown’s Dark Horse makes a run at restaurant comeback glory

Dark Horse in St. Paul is back, but what’s on the menu and behind the bar are all new.

Helming the kitchen is Shane Oporto, an accomplished chef who spent years working with James Beard winner Tim McKee. Joining him at the front of house is his partner, Sarah McDonough, who stewards the restaurant’s polished, casual style. For them, the ultimate goal of Dark Horse 2.0 is to serve the neighborhood — one that’s lost several restaurants over the past two years. The two have joined the restaurant’s new owners, who also operate St. Paul Brewing, to revive the Lowertown restaurant after it closed in January.

The new menu channels all of Oporto’s considerable restaurant experience in a myriad of dining styles into a streamlined, any-occasion eatery. Meanwhile, the staff is dialing in service geared toward families, baseball fans, folks from the neighborhood and anyone who might just want to become a regular.

Here’s what to know before heading to this new/old St. Paul restaurant.

The menu nails high/low brow dishes with snacks ($10-$15) such as potato croquettes — fat, fried potatoes served with maitaki mushrooms — that are a beer-pairing snack with just as much flex as Oporto’s fine-dining days. Pâté is served with house-made focaccia and a salad of cilantro, radish and herbs.

Heartier foods include pizzas ($12-17) with crust that has pie aficionados raving, served with classic toppings such as pepperoni or specialty pies with funky taleggio and wild mushrooms.

Expect to see the D.H. Double Burger ($17) filling up foodie Instagram feeds, because this beefy bite is a monster entry for those running best burger lists. Fresh ground meat is double-stacked and gets piled with house-made American cheese, a special sauce and thick pickles on a soft, glossy bun. If that price is at the top of the budget, there’s also a single ($13) or a simplified, classic 7th Street burger ($10.)

Dark Horse is also filling the neighborhood gap for occasion-worthy date night dinners after the closure of nearby Saint Dinette. Entrees such as the smoked sakura pork chop ($38) or spicy bolognese rigatoni ($17) are well-suited for such occasions.

Similar to the way the food is stacked to serve all occasions, the bar menu is built to serve everyone. Non-alcoholic and low-proof beverages ($7-$9) receive just as much care in building flavors as the standard classics such as the Old Fashioned or Vesper martini (both $15).

Signature cocktails are playfully named (Bring Me a Shrubbery, $14) with creative twists. A Wondrous Punch ($20) is clear with a mix-in element for a modern-era take on the classic boat drink. The Hallows Kafe ($15) is a carajillo cocktail with Gamle Ode’s Holiday Aquavit mingling with Cafe du Monde cold press for a little St. Paul meets NOLA refresher.

Beer taps keep it mostly local with crafts such as Bad Weather and St. Paul Brewing (all $6/12 oz.) that share space with brews such as Guinness and Hamm’s.

There are also NA beers on hand and a couple of THC beverages.

There’s also one sparkly, gold booth that looks suspiciously like those that used to dot Nye’s. (IYKYK — our young server had never heard of the legendary Minneapolis music bar. So, if you recognize that reference, please join us in the geezer section where we eat dinner during happy hour.)

Location: 250 E. 7th St., Saint Paul; darkhorsestp.com

Hours: 3 to 10 p.m. Tue.-Thu.; 3 p.m. to midnight Friday, noon to midnight Saturday, noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Getting there: East 7th is as easy to access as anywhere in downtown St. Paul via Metro Transit, which comes in handy when metered parking is in high demand. St. Paul Saints game days at nearby CHS Field bring a load of lively activity to the area. There are a few pay surface lots and a couple of parking ramps within a three-block radius.

Once there, it’s all main level, open and easy to navigate.