It's not easy to find really tasty, inexpensive California varietals, but there are some dandy blends at friendly price points. Among the best is the Masked Rider "Gunsmoke Red," which has a lot of cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah and a little bit of merlot and cabernet franc. It's got a thick but smooth mouth feel and layer after layer of dark fruit and wild herbs. At the dinner table, it's a meat lover's delight.

BILL WARD