Souhan: Dublin is intrigued by ‘not proper football’

DUBLIN – On Friday an Irish reporter asked Vikings coach Kevin O’Connell, who is of Irish ancestry, if he knew the translation of his first name.

“No,” O’Connell said.

“Caoimhin,” the reporter said.

O’Connell looked crestfallen. He seemed to want something that sounded a little tougher.

I’m also of Irish descent.

I’ve been lucky to travel the world on behalf of the Minnesota Star Tribune, and I’ve learned how not to write a travelogue.

But … I was chatting with the cabbie who was driving us toward Dublin’s Temple Bar area, a labyrinth of pubs and restaurants.

“Well, it’s not proper football,” he said. “But we’re glad the game is here.”

I asked if I could quote him, and what his name was. “Ah, sure,” he said. “It’s Murphy.”

Is that true, or is that marketing?

“No, it’s true!” he said. “Ruairi Murphy!”

Which sounds like marketing.

The Temple Bar area is like Bourbon Street, only with pints of darker-colored beer instead of Hurricanes, and very loud acoustic music in place of jazz and rock.

My wife and I took a walking tour, and we were reminded that most of human history is fraught with tales of oppression and bigotry.

Vikings arrived in Dublin in longboats around 800 A.D. and ruled the city for three centuries. There are inlays in the streets featuring Viking relics.

Dublin feels a bit like Seattle — overcast and atmospheric, artistic and funky.

One pub featured this saying: “Bird is known by song; man by his conversation.”

But … the Vikings’ home-base pub in Dublin, JR Mahon’s, is a gem. The spacious bar and restaurant overlooks River Liffey, which features waterworks upon which Vikings and Steelers logos are imposed.

The Cranberries and the Corrs played over the speakers upstairs; talented musicians played acoustic guitar and mandolin downstairs.

JR Mahon’s walls hold vintage Vikings photos and logos, and one stairwell features a life-size photo of Justin Jefferson.

On Wednesday, the pub served its usual menu. On Thursday, the pub featured a Jucy Lucy.

Mahon’s used to be a favorite of such literary luminaries as Oscar Wilde and James Joyce. Like Jefferson, they were very good with their hands.

London is so massive and such a hub for high-level international soccer that American football feels like a curiosity.

The first time I covered an NFL game in London, the Vikings spent the week in Great Britain and entertained a large group of British reporters, but a week of reading the local newspapers revealed only a few snippets that previewed the game.

This game feels like a bigger deal.

Dublin is a large, wealthy, international city, but compared to London it feels like a small town.

Vikings and Steelers logos are everywhere, and on Thursday night in the Temple Bar area, most of the pubs were so packed people were standing in the alleys, drinking pints.

But … have you ever tried black pudding? No? Congratulations.

A friend tried the black pudding at our hotel and described it as “gritty and mushy all at once.” Pushed for adjectives, she said, “goosebumpy and shivery.”

Her jaw hurt after eating it.

Black pudding looks like rubber but doesn’t taste as good.

Otherwise, Irish food is like British food, only edible.

This is my first visit to the Emerald Isle. I hope to return.