Vegan cold cut banh mi at D’s Banh Mi
When testing out a new banh mi sandwich place, my go-to is the cold cut, which typically comes with a variety of deli meats. That, along with house pate, is telling of attention to quality and details.
D’s Banh Mi, a recently opened walk-up window in south Minneapolis, has a menu of vegan, vegetarian and meat options — including classic barbecued pork, grilled steak, mock duck and curry tofu — that will set you back $14 (noodle bowls are also available). The place not only carries a classic cold cut, but a vegan version of it, too. And the latter is a feat.
The family behind the operation, Hilda Huynh and her three sons, have artfully crafted a vegan cold cut emulating chả lụa, the salty, savory Vietnamese ham loaf dotted with black peppercorn. The appearance is meticulously familiar, but the bite is new territory. Layered bean-cured sheets and wheat starch are seasoned with leeks, mushrooms and spices before getting molded in a banana leaf and steamed. The result is a vegan bite respecting that savory profile, but in its own meatless, dairy-free right. A house vegan pate and vegan mayo also build this sandwich, along with cilantro, pickled carrots-daikon and red Thai chiles, a surprising and fun detour from the usual jalapeños.
Huynh has vegan family members, and creating vegan pates, mayo and cold cuts has been a family projects for years. “We wanted to capture the essence of a great banh mi in a plant-based way. We wanted to make sure every customer, vegan or not, can enjoy the same authentic banh mi experience,” Huynh said. Now, it’s their time to shine. (Nancy Ngo)
1848 E. 38th St., Mpls., facebook.com/ds.banhmi
Al pastor tacos at Lomabonita Market
No one believes me when I say that Richfield is a treasure trove of culinary delights. But I’d challenge anyone who loves food to go to this newly opened Lomabonita Market and tell me otherwise. The former Rainbow Foods has been transformed into a gorgeous market: spacious, bright and tidily stocked with everything needed for a good grocery run. Also inside this 52,400-square-foot store is a full bakery, butcher counter, ice cream stand and a hot deli bar with enough seats to function as a stand-alone restaurant.
In the deli there are hot bar options: tamales, caldo de res, pupusas and burritos. But it was the taco line that I happily joined — even as it stretched into the cashier area at the height of Saturday’s lunchtime rush. As we waited, I was mesmerized by the slow turn of the trompo, a spit stacked with a robust layering of marinated pork roasting and waiting to be shaved into a tortilla. Tacos al pastor ($3 each) was the reward for my patience. With the soft, doubled-up tortillas loaded with that juicy meat, pineapple, onions and cilantro and the robust activity of the room, I could close my eyes and imagine we were in Mexico City.
Remarkable that when I opened them again, I was happy to find I was still in Richfield — a much easier commute and easier to share with friends next time we go back. (Joy Summers)
