The 5 best things our food writers ate around the Twin Cities this week

At the far end of the food court inside the sprawling Hmong Village in St. Paul sits Mai’s Papaya, a bustling, cash-only food stand. Orders are placed at the counter, and diners are handed a beeper that will go off when their order is ready (the wait is well worth it). As the name suggests, the focus is on made-to-order papaya salads, served in enormous quart-size portions. The menu also includes bubble teas, boat noodles and pho.

On a recent visit, we ordered the chicken khao piak ($8), a savory, aromatic chicken noodle soup. Made with bouncy, housemade tapioca noodles that slowly break down and thicken the broth, it’s served with tender chicken, herbs and pork rinds. The soup is further customizable with an array of fresh toppings and condiments, including chili oil, fish sauce, fried garlic and lime. Hearty and deeply comforting, the portion is generous, and almost tailor-made for a cold winter day. There’s also the khao piak combination ($10), which comes with meatballs and shrimp.

Note: Don’t confuse Mai’s Papaya with another nearby stand called Mai’s Deli, which serves a huge variety of drinks like juices and bubble teas. (Raphael Brion)

1001 Johnson Pkwy., St. Paul

After more than five years of passing the eye-catching sign with the cartoon burger/chicken, I finally made time to stop. And now there’s a new fried chicken sandwich craving to add to the list.

Logan’s Burgers & Chicken feels like it’s prime for replication: a logo that says exactly what it is, and a blessedly brief, budget-friendly menu that dials in big flavor on every item. Burgers are sizzled up on the flattop, juicy chicken tenders are fried crisp and the fries are cut and fried fresh daily. While it feels like there should be one of these stands on every corner, it’s the kind of culinary treasure that can only be found on Lake Street (at the back of a laundromat, no less).

The burger is a crowd-pleaser, but our favorite bite was the deluxe chicken sandwich ($6.99). Two chicken tenderloins are simply seasoned and perfectly balanced between meat and coating. The sublime house sauce kicks the experience over the top with its creamy, tangy, gentle spice and a small hint of sweetness that invites one bite after another until the whole thing is gone. (Joy Summers)

We’ve long been fans of the Tibetan momos and sushi rolls from this team behind Momo Sushi, Ama Sushi and Momo Cafe in Minneapolis. So when chef/owner Sonam Nyorie recently branched out and opened his first suburban outpost in Maple Grove, it was a chance to order all of this — as well as try some dishes that could become new favorites.

Now on that list is the golden salmon ($11) appetizer, essentially shreds of imitation crab wrapped in thinly sliced salmon, which gets torched for a light sear “to enhance its natural richness while maintaining a delicate texture” to the fish, Nyorie said. It’s topped with seaweed salad and tobiko roe for brine and even more texture, then nicely rounded out with a bright, silky house dressing. The dish — essentially a sashimi wrap — was as light and refreshing as it was pretty and fun to eat. Nyorie said the dish has been a staple at his other sushi restaurants; we’re just glad it traveled onto the menu at this shiny, new restaurant for a wider audience to enjoy. (Nancy Ngo)

15607 Grove Circle N., Maple Grove, apasushimn.com

The temptation begins as you drive up to this small-town joint and inhale the unmistakable smoky aroma of barbecue. Smoke’s cozy interior would be right at home in cabin country, but with a big-city craft beer and bourbon list.

The main event, of course, is the barbecue. Offerings range from pulled pork and chicken to pastrami, ribs, brisket and, on occasion, prime rib. Get the goods as part of a combo meal or, like we did, in sandwich form, in which the brisket was tender and bursting with flavor. Although it was topped with sauteed mushrooms and onions, a slice of white American cheese and a squeeze of housemade barbecue sauce — all great toppings — it would have been just as delicious on its own. The $16 price tag includes a side, and all the proper barbecue accompaniments are options: chips, fries, tots, coleslaw and a giant slab of cornbread, or upgrade to beans, soup, Brussels sprouts, hush puppies or mac and cheese. The portions are quite generous.

If Smoke sounds familiar, you may have sampled its food at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival, where the pork belly burnt ends are especially popular. We ordered those, too. (Nicole Hvidsten)

115 Railway St. SW., Lonsdale, Minn., mnsmokellc.com

If winter break felt like it was 47 days too long, then you, too, probably have little kids.

We were nearing the end of more than two weeks of no school when, desperate to give them a playdate (and me a break), I showed up at a fellow parents’ house with a bag full of Yum’s paint-your-own cookies.

These adorable kits come with different seasonally themed stencils, a little paintbrush and an edible palette of food dye for $5.95. Dip the brush in water to activate the icing colors, and the kids get their own canvas to paint and then devour. (Yes, that’s a bite that was impatiently chomped out of the bottom corner before my son let me take a picture.)