The 5 best things our food writers ate in the Twin Cities area this week

It's not wrong to add sauerkraut to your dinner. Here in St. Paul, we embrace this often-maligned ingredient in all kinds of new and interesting ways — on pizza, in egg rolls and on this glory of burger majesty.

All burgers on the menu are reasonably thick, good for those who might be nursing smashburger fatigue. The Reuben burger ($13) is topped with spiced and thinly sliced pastrami, a swipe of Russian dressing and a handful of kraut held down by a square of melted Swiss cheese. The sauerkraut's tangy kick cuts through the richness of the Angus beef patty while amplifying the flavors. (This acidity is why people put pickles on a burger; sauerkraut is just a little better.) The whole business holds together thanks to a sturdy pretzel bun that can withstand the juices released from the perfectly prepped medium burger. It is the best of all things in one bite. (Pro tip: Fries are an option, but order this one with the housemade chips and a side of their proprietary dipping sauce.)

Brunson's is an old neighborhood bar on St. Paul's East Side with a beautifully modernized menu. Thomas and Molly LaFleche purchased and reopened the former Schwietz bar in 2017, with chef Torrance Beavers creating a menu that remains mostly intact. The idea was to keep all the comforts of a St. Paul bar — well-worn bar top, the kind of hospitality where the staff knows a regular's order before they cross the threshold — and build a better cocktail program, rotating craft beer list and even some good boxed wine. The result is just about one of the most comfortable and comforting spots in town. (Joy Summers)

956 Payne Av., St. Paul, 651-447-2483, brunsonspub.com, Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat. Kitchen closes an hour earlier.

Last weekend I "won" the Pie & Mighty lottery for just the second time in two years. (That honor means I won the chance to purchase a pie, an opportunity that only goes to a fraction of the people who want one each week.) When I went to collect my winnings — a decadent chocolate pie — the sign out front mentioned something I hadn't seen on the menu before.

A "Dandy Pie," aka a hand pie, is a newer offering from this dainty pie shop. "We've been just playing around with them as time allows. It is a fun side project we've wanted to get after for — gosh, ever?" said co-owner and baker Rachel Swan. The dandies have only been on the menu about three weeks and, like the regular pie slices available during the shop's limited hours, you have to act fast to get one ($5-$6).

Last week's flavor was butternut squash with sage, caramelized onions and cream cheese. (This coming weekend, look for potato curry.) After a longish wait in line on a cold, windy day, this warm and toasty hand pie — well, it's the size of two hands — was the comfort food Band-Aid I needed. (Sharyn Jackson)

Sometimes you find the tastiest treasures in the most unexpected places. And this taco shop, tucked away in a strip mall off Interstate 35 in Lakeville, is a prime example.

It's also a prime example of great Mexican food. Calling it a taqueria seems understated; the depth of the menu is impressive. Homemade tamales, pozole, tortas, alambres, sopes and platillos (with a whole tilapia!) were offered right alongside the more expected quesadillas, enchiladas, burritos and nachos. With so much to explore, I felt a little sheepish ordering the taco combo ($10.99) — a craving is a craving — but certainly wasn't disappointed.

Like all good street tacos, these are minimalist to let the ingredients shine: homemade tortillas, meat, cilantro, onion and lime. The choices of fillings were almost intimidating — asada, al pastor, carnitas, barbacoa, chicken tinga, chorizo, birria, fish plus a half-dozen more. We settled on asada, al pastor, chicken and carnitas. The meat was flavorful and juicy, the tortillas perfection. (Never forget the squeeze of lime.) Making it a combo means in addition to two tacos and a drink, you're treated to refried beans and rice, too. While the traditional side dishes can be grease-laden and heavy, that's not the case here.

There's not an overabundance of seating — it's a fast-casual, counter-service shop — but online ordering is a breeze. (Nicole Hvidsten)

11276 W. 210th St., Lakeville, 952-456-0038, taqueria-los-compadres.square.site. Open 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.

Global comforts dominate the flavors of the small-bites menu, including the exquisite mussels in tom kha broth ($14). The mussels (from Prince Edward Island) are stewed in a broth of coconut milk, ginger, chiles and woodsy mushrooms. It's an appetizer that works just as well as the Thai soup it's inspired by. Not one drop should be left behind. It's rich and zingy, spicy and lush — all the flavors balanced in one generous bowl. This dish is a perfect bridge from the dark days of winter to the warmer spring days on the horizon. (J.S.)

455 W. 7th St., St. Paul, emeraldstpaul.com, Open 4-10 p.m. Sun., Wed.-Thu., 4-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Walk-ins only.

For my first back-to-normal-ish brunch gathering, a friend brought over a giant box of doughnuts from Mojo Monkey. Every oversized, frosting-laden pastry was a winner, but none wowed the group as much as this one. A raised doughnut that's been crusted in crumbles of honey cornbread, topped with a hearty scoop of cheddar grits dotted with chopped jalapeños, and a maple-glazed waffle balancing prodigiously on top — what's not to love?

"I grew up in New Orleans part of my life, and grits were a staple at breakfast," said owner Lisa Clark. "Of course, we used bacon grease from the tin can on the stove growing up in the South, but I did not add that to the Mojo version."

Instead, she incorporated another flavor — maple — that she grew up with. Hence the mini maple waffle, for a nice sweet-savory punch. And the cornbread? "I think honey cornbread is good with just about anything," she said.