What to expect when eating at Vagabondo, the new David Fhima restaurant

Excelsior is having a culinary renaissance, making it a fitting location for renaissance chef David Fhima to open his latest restaurant.

Vagabondo, which opened last month, is the latest in his portfolio, and the first outside of the Twin Cities. The restaurant highlights the chef’s Sicilian ancestry, complementing his Minneapolis eateries that also reflect his heritage: Fhima’s, which leans Moroccan, and the Parisian Maison Margaux. (He also owns Mother Dough bakeries.)

Named after the childhood nickname given to him by his Sicilian grandmother, Vagabondo rounds out the type of cuisine he’s always wanted to serve.

“We’re coming full circle in doing the foods that I grew up with,” Fhima told the Star Tribune earlier this summer.

Here’s what to expect — and what’s to come — when dining at Vagabondo.

Location: 205 Water St., Excelsior, 763-273-1760, vagabondomn.com.

Hours: Coffee lounge 8 a.m.-3 p.m. daily; dining hours 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. The bar stays open an hour later.

Starters include beef carpaccio, calamari, burrata, caponata and panzanella ($17-$28); we had the calamari, pan-seared, very tender and the meatiest (in the best way) in recent memory.

Fresh pastas are having a moment, and Vagabondo has a wide range of Sicilian specialties, among them pasta alla norma ($29), a long-simmered Bolognese with rigatoni ($42) as well as Grandma’s pillowy gnocchi ($36) and lasagna ($26), which is billed as “seven layers of love.” We appreciated being able to order pastas in smaller or “nicu” portions, allowing us to save room for an entree.

We stuck with the theme and ordered the Sicilian baked fish ($44), a tender cod with ultra-crispy skin resting in a mix of tomatoes, capers, olives, raisins, almonds and vinegar. Pro tip: Save some of the bread to mop up the deeply flavorful sauce. Other entrees ($22-$59) include a vegetarian risotto, steaks, a burger and more.

Dessert ($7-$12) is no afterthought, with two flavors of cake, crostata as well as tiramisu served tableside — it’s wheeled over on a cart! — but we were content with a scoop of gelato, choosing pistachio and the seasonal raspberry.

The drinks: There’s a variety, from the obligatory Negroni to the more vegetal Giovi, made with tomato vermouth ($16-$18). There are a few beer and THC options and a handful of NA drinks — more if you count Italian sodas, which can also be made dirty. After-dinner drinks include marsala, sauterne and a couple of cocktails ($14-$19).

The vibe: We dined on the main level, which is open, bright, comfortable — and busy. The contemporary decor is lush with velvet textures, yet has plenty of whimsy, thanks to touches by artist Stephanie Dillon. Her floral handiwork can be found throughout, from walls to windows. An exposed brick wall in the adjacent lounge adds character.

Happy hour: There’s a daily social hour from 3 to 5 p.m. in the lounge areas with its own brief but varied menu, from fries and pizza bruschetta to busiate pesto Trapanese and a burger ($9-$16).

Attention, early risers: In addition to morning coffee, breakfast service is starting Sept. 29, weekdays from 8-11 a.m. Brunch begins Oct. 4, and will be available from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat.-Sun.