Tofu Bao from Abang Yoli
I'm beginning to suspect there's a bit of magic behind the walls at 3749 Nicollet Av. S. in Minneapolis.
The relatively small space tucked behind Nighthawks conjures tastiness. First it was an experimental culinary space, then a revolutionary pop-up room, and most recently the launchpad for Boludo, the fast-growing empanada and pizza empire that relocated across the street. The newest tenant is Abang Yoli, and an entirely new menu is casting dizzyingly spells of deliciousness on customers.
Abang Yoli is the work of chef Jamie Yoo, and this is its second outpost. Yoo first opened inside the popular Market at Malcolm Yards food hall. The lively stand there quickly attracted a following for its menu mix of Korean fried chicken, ssam and char siu, drawing from a pantry of different Asian flavors and cuisines. The tradition continues at the new location, a free-standing space that's best for ordering takeout.
The bao are affordable and filling bites, ranging from $4.50 to 5.50, depending on the filling. The dough, as plush as new snowfall, is made fresh in-house daily. The tofu ($4.50) comes with cross-hatched grill marks and a subtle, creamy flavor. Enlivening every bite is an herbal mix of mint, scallions and toasty/fiery chili crunch. Each bite is a savory mix of texture and flavors. (Joy Summers)
3749 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., abangyoli.com
Mushroom risotto at Noa
As snow was piling high outside, I was snug inside Noa, the California-inspired eatery that anchors the lower level of the IDS Center in Minneapolis. The holiday spirit was in full swing, with brightly lit trees in the courtyard and musicians entertaining lunchgoers. It was actually pleasant.
Despite the restaurant's California ties, I ordered something decidedly Minnesotan: mushroom risotto ($20). Filled with wild rice, meaty mushrooms, crisp celery and a creamy celery "soup," it was a welcome comfort on a snowy day. The tang of goat cheese cut through the richness, but it was still rich. Very rich. (It's almost like cream of mushroom soup, but in the best possible way.) Portions are large, so share a side of broccolini ($9) with your dining companions and box up half of the risotto for tomorrow's lunch. It will be just as delicious. (Nicole Hvidsten)
77 S. 7th St., Mpls., 612-886-2194, noaminneapolis.com