The 5 best things our food writers ate this week

Could the next hot restaurant neighborhood be in the 55744 ZIP code? That’s what I was contemplating while sitting inside a lovely restored, historic building overlooking a sun-dappled historic train station, when a jewel box of a salad was placed before me. Grand Rapids, Minn., is long on natural beauty. Anyone who has experienced the waters of Pokegama Lake or wandered past the storybook outdoor settings and over the Mississippi River footbridge is familiar. But culinary charm isn’t usually what comes to mind — until now.

Amanda and Kyle Lussier opened the Pines this summer after relocating from larger cities to the appealing pace and access to nature that Grand Rapids offers. The restaurant is in a former storefront that has been transformed into a chic Scandinavian design-style space with three levels of seating. The menu changes with what is available locally and would be big news down here, so it’s no wonder the reservations have been a hot ticket in this close-knit community.

A salad of Bryndlewood Garden’s tomatoes ($16) showcases the talent in restraint in which the restaurant excels. Freshly plucked, they taste like August sunshine, and are dressed in a light balance of oil, vinegar and a smattering of pine nuts along with fresh basil, torn chunks of milky mozzarella and slices of freshly made bread. This is peak summer eating, and I couldn’t be happier to have found it in this corner of the world. (Joy Summers)

12 NW. 3rd St., Grand Rapids, thepinesmn.com

When at the Kingfield Farmers Market in south Minneapolis over the weekend stocking up on produce like sweet corn and peppers, we came across an arepas stand. The South American round corn cakes were getting cooked to order off a round griddle, the crispy exterior starting to form with every passing second. There were nine filling options to sandwich into these beautiful golden corn cakes, a mix of meat and vegetarian-friendly.

It was hard to resist, and all of a sudden the best-laid plans to cook breakfast at home were thrown out the window. At the stand, called Arepa Time, we ordered a mix, and all were satisfying. But if there was a can’t-miss, it would be the black bean and plantain arepa topped with queso ($11). The black beans snapped into wonderful creaminess when bitten into and fried plantains added welcome sweetness and texture for a deliciously balanced bite. And if you don’t want to stop there, our runner-up would be the tasty seasoned pulled pork arepa ($12). (Nancy Ngo)

In addition to Kingfield, Arepa Time can be found at other outdoor Minneapolis markets run by the nonprofit Neighborhood Roots, such as the new Southwest Farmers Market. Check neighborhoodrootsmn.org for weekly updates so you can time your visit right; several vendors rotate markets regularly.

Dakota Iverson, a south Minneapolis kid turned hospitality pro, has taken the reins. “Reopening feels deeply personal,” she wrote in an email.

“I wanted to honor the history and deep connection with the community while creating a space where people can slow down for a minute in our increasingly fast-paced world.”

Changes include ditching the bar entirely — no liquor license necessary; losing the TVs; and giving the place a fresh, light coat of paint. The menu is all new, too. Cheap eats alert: everything is under $10!

In addition to ice cream scoops and malts, there’s a long list of “dirty sodas” to meet today’s big viral craze ($3.75-$4.75). The Orange Cream Cloud, with Fanta, vanilla and marshmallow syrups, topped with whipped cream, was a Dreamsicle delight. On the savory side, the buttermilk chicken “tendies” ($9.75) were a flavorful notch above the usual nugget fare.

But my favorite was the pizza burger ($9.50), something I probably haven’t had since I last set foot in a middle school cafeteria. The patty is made with a blend of beef and Italian sausage, nicely spiced and smothered just so with melty mozz, bright marinara and slices of old-school pepperoni (none of this cupping business). “It’s such a classic throwback burger that you really don’t see much anymore,” Iverson said. It “felt right for what we’re doing here.” (Sharyn Jackson)

There are many changes afoot in Excelsior, at least when it comes to the food scene, with five new restaurants springing up on Water Street in the last few months. But one place that hasn’t changed is Maynard’s farther up the lake. The lakeside classic with a destination patio has been drawing regulars and day-trippers religiously since 1998. And on a blue-sky day this week with no smoke and low humidity, lunch was packed.

But even Maynard’s changes now and then. While many of the favorite menu items haven’t been touched since it first opened, there’s a new shrimp ceviche dish ($14.95) that fits right in on that grand Lake Minnetonka wharf. Plump chunks of shrimp swim in a perky citrus marinade and mingle with briny red onion for a fresh snack just meant to be consumed in front of a sparkling body of water, with a gin Bootleg to wash it down.

If you haven’t made it to one of Lake Minnetonka’s greatest hit-patios yet this summer, consider this your mid-August alarm bell. (S.J.)

685 Excelsior Blvd., Excelsior, maynards-excelsior.com

Some dinners inside the Lexington feel like stepping into a time machine. It’s been 90 years since this restaurant first opened in St. Paul and the walls contain multitudes of stories. From the coat check to the sleek curve of the bar, there are moments built into each experience that feel fresh yet like a well-worn memory, smooth and soft from ages of running over them time and again.

For dessert, we ordered grasshopper pie ($14), a nod to the supper club drink. The dark chocolate cookie crust is the perfect foil for the creamy, minty ice cream center. The whole thing tastes like shopping at Dayton’s or leaving grandma’s house with a treat tucked into your pocket.

Even as times change, the Lexington remains a touchstone of the finest kind of dining. (J.S.)

1096 Grand Av., St. Paul, thelexmn.com