Rodeo Pizza at Earl Giles
This new Northeast spot is a distillery that's not yet distilling. The project has been a years (and years) long dream of local bartenders-turned-makers Jeff Erkkila and Jesse Held, who have also partnered with Nick Kosevich of Drinks Apothecary. While some of the vital equipment for booze making remains off shore (but inching closer to landfall every day), the duo decided it was time to open with their vast hospitality talents leading the way. That's why this is your new favorite spot for lunchtime pizza.
It may not be a logical leap, but hear me out. In the kitchen is Matt Reisenger, who is having all kinds of fun playing with elevated bar snacks. The pizza dough gets a two-day ferment with a sourdough (named Blanche, naturally), that rises to the occasion with a light and airy crust, lending just the right amount of chewiness. Of all the toppings we sampled on a recent media visit, the Rodeo ($20) was a standout. Smoked cream, cheddar cheese and ground beef are drizzled with tangy barbecue sauce and topped with plenty of crispy fried onions.
Plus, the sunny open warehouse space is filled with towers of plants and great views of the nearby busy train tracks. For now, Earl Giles is open at 11 a.m. daily for lunch (and for takeout), but nights and locally made booze are coming soon. (Joy Summers)
1325 NE. Quincy St., Mpls., 612-345-5305, earlgiles.com
Smoked chicken wings at Butcher's Tale
In an effort to squeeze every last second out of patio season, we finally made it to the Butcher Tale's spiffy new outdoor space, which debuted earlier this summer. The glass roof and retractable walls make it usable even when the weather doesn't cooperate, but on this beautiful night — and with lush greenery, fresh air and stellar service — it was at its peak.
With the new space came a new menu, serving up a variety of casual handhelds and bites not found in the dining room. Chef Peter Botcher is a magician with a smoker, so it's no surprise that his housemade smoked cheddarwurst ($16) was a table pleaser. It's served on a robust hoagie to hold all the fixings — caramelized onions, barbecue sauce and bacon — but try a bite of the sausage sans accoutrements. It's fantastic and deserves to be savored.
The smoked chicken wings ($17), however, won the night. They're incredibly juicy and tender with a smokiness that is mouthwateringly perfect. We couldn't decide on the rum-chile barbecue or Buffalo sauce, so ordered both on the side — and that's the key. Like the cheddarwurst, the wings have so much flavor on their own, smothering them in sauce would be a disservice. Use the sauce for dipping instead, and save the extra for the second order of wings you'll be buying to go. They're great for lunch the next day.
A side note to our friends who don't eat meat: The beer garden's black bean burger ($15) is top notch: delightfully messy and full of spice and flavor. Like all good beer gardens, Butcher's Tale has something for everyone. (Nicole Hvidsten)