The Market pizza at Bear Cave Brewing
There's so much to say about Bear Cave Brewing in Hopkins. That the deceivingly huge complex opened last May in a former Firestone tire center. That you serve yourself beer (or wine, or cocktails) from a card-operated wall of pours. That you must get a crowler of housemade lemonade to take home. That you can wander through four stylish floors of seating until you find your perfect perch (mine was in the "conservatory," a window-walled dining room overlooking the snowy patio). And that there's an ambitious menu by chef Marc Paavola, with a strong emphasis on local products and brick-oven pizzas with less-than-usual topping combinations — and a dog menu, too.
On the human side of things, I was intrigued by the Market pie ($20), which skips sauce and mozzarella completely. Instead, a hearty, whole wheat crust is blanketed with a thick layer of caramelized onions, dotted with chunks of baked apple, then dappled with bits of sharp Gouda. Fresh watercress and crumbles of pecan crisp go on top, and it's finished with truffle honey. Got it all? I loved the coziness of all those flavors together. It reminded me of French onion soup (which, by the way, should definitely be a pizza flavor) and a Thanksgiving side dish, all in one bite.
The weighty six-slicer, along with a couple of fun "Not Pizza" options (a salad, and the cream of mushroom soup special) made for a filling lunch shared with a friend — at the loveliest former tire store in which I've had the pleasure of dining. (Sharyn Jackson)
1201 Mainstreet, Hopkins, 952-426-3214, bearcavebrewing.com

Torta Ahogada at La Costa
The bartender gave us the once-over after we ordered and warned us that this sandwich is one of the spiciest items on the menu. My companion and I are not built for backing down from a food challenge, said we were ready and then ordered a couple of Negra Modelos.
We were catching up over lunch inside St. Paul's best Mexican sports bar, La Costa. Owner Judy Lopez opened La Costa in 2017. She was born in Guadalajara, where several dishes on the menu originated, including the torta ahogada ($15.99).
Fresh sourdough bread is dunked in a tomato sauce that's laced with potent chile de árbol and stuffed with carnitas, creamy beans, snappy pickled onion and a layer of avocado slices. Each bite brings that glorious squish of bread and a wave of delicious heat. We ate quickly in revered silence because we were clearly in the presence of sandwich greatness. It was over much too soon. The dish is technically big enough to share, but next time we'll get two, and remember to reserve a stack of napkins beforehand.
194 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul, 651-330-8743, lacostamn.com