James Beard nods come at a time when chefs, restaurants have little to celebrate

When Mike Brown learned that Travail Collective had been named a James Beard Awards semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurateur, the news barely registered. The chef and co-owner spent much of the day in meetings — “the war room,” he called it — focused on a more immediate problem: how to keep the group’s eight restaurants open in the weeks ahead.

For Minnesota chefs and restaurant owners, the Jan. 21 announcement of the culinary awards’ long list arrived in the middle of a crisis.

Restaurant operators across the state, from tasting menus to taquerias, have been contending with intense federal immigration enforcement and the ripples it has had on dining for weeks. Staffing is down as workers stay home, afraid to travel. Diners are dropping reservations, some over concerns about encountering raids. An economic blackout planned for Jan. 23 will eat up a pivotal Friday night of revenue for the restaurants that choose to close. On top of it all, this weekend will see historic low temperatures.

Amid those challenges, some Minnesota restaurateurs are struggling to celebrate what is widely considered the industry’s highest recognition.

“I would trade any possible accolade for peace of mind,” said Gustavo Romero, chef and co-owner of Oro by Nixta, a semifinalist for Best Chef: Midwest.

At Travail Collective, which includes fine-dining destination Travail Kitchen & Amusements as well as ie by Travail and Dream Creamery, Brown described the recognition as meaningful but unsettling. “We’re very honored to be nominated,” he said. “But it might be short-lived. That’s just a crazy, sad reality.”

Travail is now working on launching a fundraiser for the group’s restaurants in the form of a sweepstakes, with a portion of proceeds going to a food shelf. Brown acknowledged the awkward irony of it all. “I hope it gets picked up by national press so that people can actually see, yeah, James Beard-nominated restaurateurs of the year are trying to raise funds because of the effect that this is having in our whole community,” he said.

“It’s hard to celebrate when you know there’s so many people who are in pain,” said Romero.

Still, he said, the response from fellow chefs and diners has been uplifting. “We get showered with love from colleagues and friends for the news,” Romero said. “And I guess, in moments of darkness, a little bit of light is always appreciated.”

Alex Roberts, a past Best Chef: Midwest winner and a current semifinalist for Outstanding Chef for Restaurant Alma, said the nod offers a sense of stability. “Any normalcy we can have or find is helpful right now,” he said, adding that the recognition is shared by the people, some of them vulnerable, who are working behind the scenes in restaurants.

The acknowledgment felt especially meaningful to Shigeyuki Furukawa, chef and owner of Kado No Mise and a semifinalist for Best Chef: Midwest. “For small local restaurants like us, it’s a very tough time,” he said. “And the national recognition means a lot.”

Outside the Twin Cities, where restaurants rarely make the list, Kyle Lussier, chef/co-owner of the Pines in Grand Rapids and a semifinalist for the national Emerging Chef category, said he didn’t fully believe the Beard news until he saw it reported nationally. “It’s humbling and motivating,” he said.

At least one restaurateur outside Minnesota questioned the timing of the Beards announcement.

Luke Zahm, of Driftless Cafe in Viroqua, Wis., and the host of PBS’ “Wisconsin Foodie” television program, wrote a letter to the James Beard Foundation asking the board to consider postponing award announcements because of the turmoil restaurant colleagues were experiencing in Minnesota. He also forwarded his letter to the wider restaurant community.

Zahm, a former semifinalist in the Best Chef: Midwest category and a participant in the foundation’s advocacy training, said it was about starting the conversation.

“I just really wanted them to slow things down a minute just so the community and these restaurants could catch their breath,” he told the Minnesota Star Tribune. “It’s being considerate, being kind, being all those things we want to as a collective society.”

Zahm said he sent the letter twice, but did not receive a response. When he learned that the announcements continued as scheduled, he said it felt like a “missed opportunity” to be sensitive to Minnesota restaurants’ plight, but added that he’s pleased for the semifinalists.

“The James Beard Foundation celebrates the resilience, creativity and leadership of culinary professionals across the country, including the Twin Cities,” the spokesperson said. “We recognize this is an incredibly difficult time for many members of the culinary community and that restaurants across the nation are facing unprecedented challenges.”

The spokesperson said the foundation believes it is important to continue honoring culinary professionals during moments of hardship: “We think it’s more important than ever to honor their achievements and the vital role these professionals play in our communities, economy and culture.”

Despite the timing, Minnesota chefs said the recognition itself still carries real weight, especially for independent restaurants trying to survive this moment — even if it feels complicated.

Yia Vang, chef/owner of Vinai and a Best Chef: Midwest semifinalist, said he wrestled with whether to allow himself to feel joy when members of the community are hurting.

“You feel guilty because it’s also a time of sadness and mourning,” Vang said.