Zucchini is the blessing and bane of a garden.
In high season, my friend “gifts” boxes of her prodigious crop on her neighbors’ front steps and in the back seat of unlocked cars. What to do with all this bounty?
On its own, zucchini is a relatively humble ingredient that pales next to its summer peers — those snappy cherry tomatoes, golden sweet corn, velvety eggplant. But what zucchini lacks in pizazz, it can make up for in its flexibility and adaptability. It adds moisture and flavor to muffins and tea breads, and is wonderful stir-fried and sautéed. Because of its high water content, zucchini can get soggy if it’s undercooked; it is truly best when roasted just long enough to extract all the juices, then turning golden, caramelized and crisp in the oven’s dry heat.
Zucchini is a summer squash, a category that includes pattypan, scallop, crookneck and straightneck squash. All have a mild flavor and can be used interchangeably. They’re also low calorie and rich in vitamins C and B6, fiber and antioxidants. You want summer squashes when they’re young and small, not the size of a baseball bat. Oversized zucchini and summer squash are woody and tasteless.
Roasting summer squash is the best way to showcase its light, mild herbal flavors, as it develops a firm crust on the outside and turns creamy within. The only trick is to slice them into uniform thickness (about ½ inch) so they roast evenly.
Oven-roasted zucchini and squash are great with pasta, in a casserole topped with cheese or scattered on pizza. Served with a marinara sauce or ranch dressing for dipping, it makes a wonderful appetizer.
You may feel overwhelmed with this bounty, but don’t wish it (or summer) away.
Oven-Roasted Zucchini, Summer Squash and Cherry Tomato Pasta
Serves 4 to 6.