Dan Dan noodles from Szechuan in Roseville
It's the numbing, tingly burn that Szechuan fans really crave. Owner Jack Wang was steeped in the extraordinary flavors of China's Sichuan province when he and his mother moved to New York City's Chinatown for three years. It was there, watching his uncle prepare the food, that ignited the spark that would bring a fresh burn to Minnesota.
Wang grew up around food. His grandparents had a restaurant in St. Louis Park that served all the westernized Chinese dishes that Americans loved at the time: sweet and sour, General Tso's and so on — dishes that leaned toward the sweet and fried.
"But I love Szechuan food — it's just so bold," Wang said. His mother, Jessie Wong, opened Szechuan in Roseville in 2009, bringing that spice to the suburbs. In September, Wang stepped in to lead the restaurant, officially taking ownership. (Wong has focused her time on the North Loop outpost, Jun Szechuan Kitchen & Bar.)
Dan dan noodles are a common menu item, but the ones served at Szechuan are an exceptional tangle of that invigorating spice and the wonders of fresh dough. The noodles ($13) are hand-pulled — a much sought-after prize for noodle fiends — resulting in a satiating mix of tender yet and firm, with all the good textures for sweater-weather season. Served on top is a sauce of preserved pork, soul-deep soy sauce, sesame paste, pickled vegetables and that most glorious of spices: Szechuan peppercorns.
This dish is served as an appetizer, but I made a whole meal of my order, refusing to share much more than one bite with anyone in my family. (Joy Summers)
2193 N. Snelling Av., Roseville, 651-633-3113, szechuanmn.com
Cashew chicken salad sandwich at the Good Earth
When pioneering organic restaurant the Good Earth closed this summer in Roseville, that left only one of the late-1970s-founded chain still standing: a restaurant and to-go kiosk at the Galleria in Edina.
And right there in the to-go case: a deep drum of the Good Earth's signature cashew chicken salad, still going strong almost 45 years after a former KFC franchisee decided health food was the future. The chicken salad sandwich has always been the big seller at the Good Earth, and here's why: chunks of baked chicken breast are mixed with mayo, lemon, parsley and celery, and finished with roasted cashews and shredded iceberg lettuce for crunch.