The 5 best things our food writers ate this week

There’s pizza and sliders you should know about, salmon at a hotel restaurant worth a mention, high-end chocolate and classic pasta from a classic restaurant.

October 17, 2025 at 11:00AM
Ville City Pizza
Ville City Pizza Pocket Full of Soul pizza and Jeni I Got Your Number Sicilian -style pizza along with house-made mozzarella sticks. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Pocket Full of Soul pizza at Ville City Pizza Co.

When the pizza ovens inside the Roseville VFW went cold, Michael Foehse had an idea. “If we could just elevate pizza in Roseville a little bit — that would be fun."

Foehse grew up nearby and has been deeply dedicated to serving his hometown and making the world a better place. He’s a coach, entrepreneur and pizza fan. He, his wife Jen and their adult son Andre launched Ville City Pizza Co. this summer, running as a ghost kitchen inside the VFW.

“We went all in on the adventure,” he said. Studying the mechanics of making great pizza, their home kitchen filled with experiments last summer until they cracked the code on a superb crust. It’s a hybrid of Neapolitan technique with a New York-style shape using the best flour and the flavor that comes from a 72-hour ferment. The result is crust that’s thin and crispy on the bottom, but retains that plush tug with every bite. Not satisfied with one style, there’s also a thick crust, pan-baked Sicilian-style option.

All the pizza’s names have special meaning: the Pocket Full of Soul ($18/$25), with salty/crisp pepperoni cups, ricotta dollops, fresh basil on a fresh-tasting red sauce comes from a Tower of Power song. The Jeni I Have Your Number is an ode to his wife. And if that all isn’t enough to make a person smile, the restaurant is committed to donating 3% of profits back to their community with their Be Kind Eat Pizza initiative. Through December, proceeds are going to Do Good Roseville. (Joy Summers)

1145 Woodhill Dr., Roseville, vcpizzaco.com

Get a slab of chocolate with a Dubai pistachio filling at Läderach, a Swiss chocolatier new to Mall of America. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

FrischSchoggi from Läderach

If there’s one thing Minnesota could use more of, it’s “luxury chocolate.” (Couldn’t everyone?)

Mall of America now has the state’s first outpost of Läderach, a Swiss chocolatier known for its thick sheets of “FrischSchoggi,” or fresh chocolate.

Stacked slabs come in different flavors: milk, dark or white chocolate, studded with dried fruit, nuts and drizzles. The prices reflect the reputation (around $64 to $70 a pound). The good news is, the slabs are cracked into shards and sold by weight, so you can make your own assortment of bites or buy prepackaged tins with a mix-and-match. The even better news, though, is that the generous people behind the counter will happily hand out samples.

I tried a nibble of the Dubai milk FrischSchoggi and walked out with a half pound of the pistachio-filled, kataifi-flecked chocolate. Toasty, crisp and as luxury as chocolate gets, it made for a stunning dinner party dessert centerpiece, simply resting on a wooden board, ready to shatter into shareable pieces. (Sharyn Jackson)

Mall of America, 147 West Av., Bloomington, laderach.com

Honey Shishito Harissa Salmon at Cosmos, in the Lofton Hotel across from Target Center (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Honey Shishito Harissa Salmon at Cosmos

If your downtown Minneapolis plans include a game or a show, add a meal at Cosmos to your lineup. The fourth-floor restaurant across from Target Center has survived the space’s many hotel rebrands — from Graves 601 to Loews to today’s Lofton — and still delivers a polished meal with a view of the street below and a glass of bubbles at the ready.

Under chef Taylor O’Brien, Cosmos retains a confident focus on local ingredients. The blackened salmon arrives crusted and smoky with harissa, still rosy within, set over a corn-and-tomato succotash tinged with Moroccan spices ($35). It’d make suitable pre-“Purple Rain” fare, though you can also grab a burger “neat” and wings before the Timberwolves tip-off. (S.J.)

601 1st Av. N., Mpls., cosmosmpls.com

'White Kasel Sliders' from the Eagle Street in downtown St. Paul.
Three 'White Kasel Sliders,' or mini-burgers, on a plate at the Eagle Street in downtown St. Paul. (Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

White Kasel Sliders at the Eagle Street

After closing in 2023, the Eagle Street is back — but in new digs not far from its former downtown St. Paul location. It reopened a few weeks ago inside the former Apostle Supper Club, scoring another address across from Grand Casino Arena. Gone is the tiki-themed decor in favor of a sports bar with casual fare such as wings, soups, salads and sandwiches. Owners Jim Flaherty and Joe Kasel are also dishing up a side of fun.

Take the White Kasel Sliders. Rather than emulate the square beef sliders topped with grilled onions and a steamy bun from a particular fast-food chain, they’re making it their own. These sliders ($17 for three) are sizable and round, and hints of onion are worked into the patty before it all gets topped with pickles and American cheese. Appropriately, there’s also the option of ordering a 10-pack ($50).

While the space has gone mostly casual, fans of the over-the-top Apostle decor will be happy to know that the quaint Palm Springs-esque lounge in the back corner (Malm-style fireplace in the middle of the room and all) has been preserved. That way, you can still feel like you’re stepping inside of a Shag painting. (Nancy Ngo)

253 Kellogg Blvd., St. Paul, theeaglestreet.com

Fettuccini Alfredo with shrimp.
Hubbell House shrimp fettuccine Alfredo with fresh-made noodles. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Fettuccine Alfredo with shrimp at Hubbell House

My deep and abiding love for fettuccine Alfredo was born at a young age. My childhood is dotted with memories of the creamy dish ordered at special family occasions, usually inside historic dining rooms that have since faded into the history pages.

The Hubbell House in Mantorville is Minnesota’s oldest restaurant, and still stands as a beacon of how an older restaurant can continue to serve generations with a steadfast commitment to serving up the good stuff.

The restaurant isn’t known for fettuccine ($22), but I’d like to change that. Made-from-scratch egg pasta is simply dressed with garlic, cream and a little bit of cheese. It’s simple and perfect on its own, but a worthy upgrade includes sizable shrimp ($12) that are grilled and seasoned judiciously. This is a dish that showcases ingredients confidently handled with skill, resulting in a classic that is a classic for good reason. (J.S.)

502 N. Main St., Mantorville, hubbellhouserestaurant.com

about the writers

about the writers

Nancy Ngo

Assistant food editor

Nancy Ngo is the Minnesota Star Tribune assistant food editor.

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Joy Summers

Food and Drink Reporter

Joy Summers is a St. Paul-based food reporter who has been covering Twin Cities restaurants since 2010. She joined the Minnesota Star Tribune in 2021.

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Sharyn Jackson

Reporter

Sharyn Jackson is a features reporter covering the Twin Cities' vibrant food and drink scene.

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