Crispy rice tots from Bap and Chicken
The Korean dish bibimbap is traditionally served in a hot stone bowl. When the rice comes into contact with the heated stone, it forms a crispy rice crust. But the kitchen at Bap and Chicken isn't set up to make hot bowls, so chef/owner John Gleason had to come up with a different way to deliver that crunchy rice goodness.
"I wanted to pay homage to the crispy bits that people love," he said.
So, he created crispy rice tots. Bigger than a Tater Tot, smaller than arancini, these cylinders of seasoned rice are formed into a tot shape and deep fried for ultimate crunch. The $5 side dish, which is gluten-free, comes with zippy kimchi crema for dipping.
Snowbirds, take note: A Bap and Chicken outpost opened in Chandler, Ariz., last fall. And Gleason's brilliant invention is on the menu there, too. (Sharyn Jackson)
1328 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-333-0929, bapandchicken.com. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.
Egg and Cheese Croissant at Black Walnut Bakery
For years before opening Black Walnut Bakery in 2019, pastry chef Sarah Botcher sold her terrific cookies, breads and danishes at pop-ups. They were a marvel then — Botcher's textbook pastries bear resemblance to those from San Francisco's storied Tartine Bakery, where she once worked — and they mostly are now. The kouign-amann, in recent memory, was buttery and had an armor of caramelized gloss.
Like Tartine, Black Walnut's opening hours are odd. They're open until 2 p.m., five days a week. And like Tartine, not all pastries are a hit.
But frustration disappears every time I order Botcher's Egg and Cheese Croissant ($8). Two flaky pieces of croissant bread, pressed together like a panini, sandwich a block of soufflé-like egg custard. Mild Gruyère, and a goat-cheese/herbed spread add more complexity than mayo. It is hefty, for certain, but not cloyingly rich. Don't forget to add ham. (Jon Cheng)